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Click here for discussion of the threat of closure (Oct. 2005) of a small farm in Lake City, west of Jacksonville, by Florida State officials
CONTENTS, most recent first:
64) RAISING NUTRITIOUS CHICKENS, H.S. Wong (4/08/05)
63) "GRASS-FED" CERTIFICATION IN CALIFORNIA, lizgriff (11/6/04)
62) AN IRATE 1-CHICKEN FARMER, No signature (7/2/04)
61) LAB TESTS IN MALAYSIA VS THE WORLD, HS Wong (7/1/04)
60) 15 MINUTES OUTDOORS IS NOT "FREE-RANGE" (6/10/04)
59) NO GOVT "FREE RANGE" LABELS; GO TO FARMS INSTEAD, Randy (5/23/04)
58) MEASURES FOR ERADICATING AVIAN FLU, HS Wong (2/7/04)
57) OMEGA-3 CONTENT OF CHICKEN, HS Wong (9/27/03)
56) HOW CHICKEN MASH WAS INVENTED, Robert Plamondon (6/7/03)
55) ENZYMES, PET, LADINO CLOVER - MISC FEED INFO, Chicken-Feed at YahooGroups.com (5/4/03)
54) PREVENTING WORM PARASITES, Robert Plamondon (4/28/03)
53) DOGS N CHICKENS, ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com (4/22/03)
(I'm tickled pink! ---ks)
52) STICKY CHICKS OR STUCK CHICKS? HS Wong (4/9/03)
51) HEN TO ACCEPT BABY CHICKS -- HOW?, Kristine (4/9/03)
50) LAST DAYS OF INCUBATION, R. Bloch (4/9/03)
49) WILL CHICKENS EAT ANTS?, ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com (3/25/03)
48) TURMERIC AND GARLIC FOR CRD, H.S. Wong (3/25/03)
47) FEED ECONOMY DISCUSSION, ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com (2/23/03)
46) WINTER WASTE MANAGEMENT, R. Bloch (12/3/02)
45) WINTER WASTE MANAGEMENT, Julia (12/3/02)
44) TRANS FATS, S. Royer (2/24/02)
43) FATS IN FEEDS, R. Plamondon (2/21/02)
42) YELLOW GREASE, A. Royle(2/18/02)
41) YELLOW FAT
40) ORGANIC CERTIFICATION ISSUES, L. Owlsley (1/25/02)
39) CHICKEN GUARD DOGS, L. Owlsley (11/14/01)
38) GAPEWORM PARASITES IN EARTHWORMS, R. Plamondon (11/13/01)
37) ADVANTAGE FOR WHOM? IS "ADVANTAGE" SAFE?
36) MANAGING COCCIDOSIS USING DEEP LITTER
35) LIST OF ANTIBIOTICS USED IN FEED
34) ANTIBIOTICS IN FEED
33) TRUER WORDS
32) ORGANIC OR...??
31) PASTURED POULTRY AUTHOR RE-EXAMINES SYSTEM
31b)RESPONSE FROM PASTUREPOULTRY LIST MEMBER
30) MILLET INSTEAD OF CORN
29) COSTS OF FEED FOR 150 CHICKS IN WASHINGTON STATE
28) INTESTINAL CONDITIONS, PARASITES, PROBIOTICS, AND TOXINS
27) FEEDING STORE-BOUGHT EGGS TO BIRDS CAUSES PROBLEMS
---FREE RANGE EGGS DON'T
26) FEED AND MOVEABLE PEN DETAILS IN PASTURED POULTRY
25) POULTRY-FEED COVER CROPS FOR SMALL PLOTS
24) NUTRITIONISTS AND FEED MILLS
23) CSA'S BECOMING POPULAR WAY OF BUYING FARM POULTRY
22) "WIVES TALES" OR "WISE TALES"?
21) PASTURED POULTRY COVER CROPS, IN DETAIL
20) KILL MITES: FOOT TRAYS APPLY D.E. TO CHIX' FEET
19) CHICKEN "POOP PATROL" IN STABLE KEEPS PARASITES WAY DOWN
18) FREE RANGE TECHNIQUES AT KINTALINE FARM
PLANT AND POULTRY CENTRE, SCOTLAND
17) SCRATCH GRAINS NEED SUPPLEMENTING WITH OTHER FEEDS
16) UPSTARTS
15) AMERICAN PASTURED POULTRY PRODUCERS MAGAZINE
14) NEW WORMERIES VIS-A-VIS CHICKENS WEBSITE
13) SALATIN LAYER RATION, ETC.
12) DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FOR DE-WORMING CHICKENS
11) THE OLD NAVY CHIEF AND THE PARROT
10) TO COMPOST OR NOT TO COMPOST (CHICKEN MANURES IN PASTURED
POULTRY)
9) SUNFLOWER SEEDS INFO REQUESTED
8) OCEAN POLLUTANTS INFO REQUESTED
7) GETTING BIRDS ACQUAINTED
6) FEED DETAILS --- MAKING YOUR OWN
5) VIGILANCE IN KNOWING YOUR SOURCES PAYS OFF
4) TOWARD A DEFINITION OF PASTURE POULTRY
3) RESIDUES TESTING NEEDED
2) ORGANIC FEED MILL IN PENNSYLVANIA
1) GUINEA HENS
-------- begin posts --------
64) RAISING NUTRITIOUS CHICKENS H.S. Wong, April 9, 2005
General poultry raising is pretty much well researched
and documented. Poultry Breeding and Genetics by R.D.
Crawford is a good reference book to have.
If I am raising MEAT chickens (I have no experience
with layers or breeders) for my own consumption (ie
small scale), this is what I would do:
1. Select a slow growing breed. Fast growing breeds
that reach 2 kilo in 40 days or so will not have the
time to accumulate the desirable fatty acids from
grasses and plants into their meats, much less to
convert plant omega 3 to DHA and EPA. My findings
have been that chickens need to be on grass for at
least 45 days before they can start to accumulate DHA
in any significant quantities and for the omega
6:omega 3 ratio to start improving. The maximum I can
push down the ratio, without supplementation, is 6 to
1. That seems to be a natural limit (some academician
may want to do a research on this). For most of us, I
think 6:1 may be enough. With supplementation the
ratio can go as low as 2:1. The best supplement is
marine algae. For those raising organic chickens and
wish to have it all, there are marine algae farms
producing pollutant-free algae. The inclusion rate is
a total of 20gms over the last 14 days.
2. Plant a large variety of plants and grasses for
them to forage on. I have 20 to 30 varieties of
plants. Select plants high in omega 3. Traditionally
plants chosen for pasture have been those high in
protein. I am not familiar with grasses and plants in
the West, but two grasses that I have tested to be
high in omega 3 are guinea (panicum maximum) and stylo
(stylosanthes spp.), which may be found in the West.
Earlier on, I had mentioned napia (pennisetum
purpurcum), but now I would advice against it as it is
too invasive and will create management problems.
Pasture management is an entire field of study all
together. A good book to start on the subject is
Greener Pastures On Your Side Of The Fence by Bill
Murphy. The Albrecht papers by William Albrecht,
Soil, Grass & Cancer by Andre Voisin and Secrets of
the Soil, Peter Tompkins and Christopher Bird are
interesting reads and will provide other dimensions to
the subject.
Treat the soil and the grass well, as there is an
interconnectedness all the way from the soil right up
to the nutrients available in the meats and vegetables
and fruits that are grown on them. The ?qi? or "chi"
flow is continuous (my Oriental side speaking) :)
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
63) "GRASS-FED" CERTIFICATION IN CALIFORNIA, lizgriff at earthlink.net, November 6, 2004
We raise "free range chickens" and the term in our case
implies totally free range. Their portable coop sits out in a field full of grass
and they forage to their heart's content. I would definitely say that the [legal definition of the "free range"] term needs
to include "grass" covering the ground, with day long access, even if
it is dry grass.(seasonaly) I've heard how freely the term is used. We are ridiculously
small here in our neck of the woods, but stand by our quality and word. We have
160 acres and only have chickens and beef. Our County of Marin is just now offering
a grass-fed certification, which will clarify the term. Check with Marin Co. Ag Extension for more details. They have a great program.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
62) AN IRATE 1-CHICKEN FARMER, No signature, July 2, 2004
I think that your website does not explain a lot about how to feed
one chicken. As a starter I do not even know what a pullet is and I do not have
a clue why you are saying that 17% layer ration what is that?Second of all how are
you going to feed 600 pounds of soybeans to one chicken. You need to actually tell
what you are talking about.
[Thank you. Sorry I was not able to help you. Perhaps if you would state your questions clearly, I or someone else might be able to assist. --- Chicken-Feed]
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
61) LAB TESTS IN MALAYSIA VS THE WORLD
"HS Wong"
hs_wong33 at yahoo.com
July 1, 2004
The situation in my country may be entirely different
from yours. In my country, we have 3 sources for lab
testing. One is labs in universities. Most univ with
an agri or animal husbandry faculty in my country will
provide tests at nominal costs to farmers and industry
stakeholders. I do my lipids test at an university
lab. The next category are labs set up by the
Government for all stakeholders in the food industry.
Here, a poultry farmer for example can send his birds
if they are sick to determine the exact pathogen
that's causing the problem. Or, we can send dressed
birds for tests on salmonella, e coli contamination.
They do these tests for free as a service to the
industry to raise standards of food safety and
quality. The last category are commercial labs and
these may be expensive. Generally, one just have to
tell them the purpose of the intended test and they
will give you a proposal - it can range from a
detailed expensive one to one that's moderate in cost
but serves our purposes. For example if you feed
antibiotics to your chickens and you wish to test for
residues in the dressed bird, you can just ask for
test on that specific antibiotic, which will be
inexpensive. On the other hand, if for marketing
purposes you intend to prove to your buyers you use no
antibiotics at all, then the lab may have to test for
10 or more common antibiotics. That may be expensive.
My background is in corporate finance and other Wall
Street kind of stuff. No relevance to what I am doing
now. What I am doing now calls for passion, eye for
detail and a deep pocket to pay for the learning
curve.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
60) 15 MINUTES OUTDOORS IS NOT "FREE-RANGE"
willwyckoff@sbcglobal.net
June 10, 2004
I have been raising chickens for meat and eggs for the last three
years. In that period I have butchered three flocks for meat and am now developing
my third flock of layers. When I started, I let the chickens out of their coop
to roam at will from sunup to sundown, but cut that practice out when my egg production
dropped by twenty-five percent because the hens were laying their eggs where I could't
find them. I now keep them in the coop until 3:00 p.m. daily, then let them roam
at will. As I understand the present federal guidelines for use of the "free-range"
label, a chicken must have a minimum of 15 minutes a day outside of the chicken
house. My chickens get far more time than that and I don't truly feel that they
are free-range by any stretch of the imagination. A wild turkey or a duck has free
range, as does a pidgeon in the largest city's parks. I cannot even begin to imagine
how one could consider that a chicken with fifteen minutes to stretch its legs outside
of the chicken house could by the wildest consideration be thought of as "free-range,"
much less be defined that way under fedearal law or policy.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
59) NO GOVT "FREE RANGE" LABELS; GO TO FARMS INSTEAD
Date: May 23, 2004
Unfortunately, I do not have time to give you a full explanation
of my view, but I do want to give you some of my thoughts. You say that you want
to see solid government regulation to define the term "free range". I
would propose that instead of encouraging this, that we promote personal farmer
- consumer relationships and have "customer inspected" farms. If the
customer likes what he/she sees at a local farm, then they will buy it. If they
don't like it, they will look elsewhere. Fecal factory concentration camp chicken
producers are government inspected, but the stuff they market still isn't fit to
eat. Government regulations won't solve the problem, they will only give people
a false sense of security. There's my opinion in an eggshell.
Best Regards,
Randy
SENDER = fromu2randy@hotmail.com
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
58) MEASURES FOR ERADICATING AVIAN FLU
"HS Wong"
hs_wong33 at yahoo.com
Feb. 7, 2004
You can "save"
your farm for the future, not for now. For now you
have to do what the Government says.
I asked how you know it is avian flu because newcastle
(sempar) will have the same signs and also, if it is a
virulent strain (jenis yang kuat) the death rate
(kadar kematian) will be the same.
To save the farm for the future, do the following:
1. make sure your farm from now on is a single species
farm. In particular, do not have ducks together with
your chickens. If there is a duck farm near your
farm, either move your poultry farm away, or have the
duck farm move away. This is because ducks are
carriers (pembawa kuman) of avian flu and most times
show no signs.
2. Make sure your farm is located further than 20km
from a bird sanctuary (kawasan perlindungan burung
liar) especially waterfowl (burung burung air).
3. Sterilise your farm. The flu virus is very
susceptiable to heat and the best method of
sterilising is using heat as follows:
a. move all organic matter to a hole - this include
dung, feathers, litter, feed, etc. All throw into this
big hole, pour petrol in and burnt it. Remember, this
include all feed that you have in your store.
b. get a blow-torch - I use one using LPG and flame
all surfaces in the barn (reban), external areas, etc.
Careful, don't end up burning the buildings down.
After that, wash off with detergent. After it has
dried, spray down with disinfectant. Note that
disinfectant works best when it is clean, it does not
work so well if surfaces are dirty with organic
matter.
4. After the above, open up all your rebans to the
sun, chop down branches that prevent sunlight from
heating the soil, etc. Leave them like that for a few
months until the outbreak is over.
5. In the interim, start a pest eradication program -
get rid of rats, cockroaches, flies, etc.
Restocking
1. If you are not into pastured or organic, consider a
closed house operation. If you are using open house
system, have netting available to prevent wild birds
from getting into the house to eat the feed and spread
disease.
2. Vaccinate your birds against all endemic diseases
in your geographical area. My understanding is that
most of Indonesia is endemic for newcastle, gumboro,
fowlpox, fowl cholera and infectious bronchitis.
Birds weakened by these endemic diseases will catch
avain flu faster and more severely.
3. Now that your government has started on avian flu
vaccination, your new stock must always be vaccinated
against the flu otherwise the outbreak will occur
again and again. Consult the vet.
4. Strenghten the immune system of your birds by using
traditional herbal medicines (jamu).
5. Start off your new chicks with a probiotic that
includes bacillus subtilis. Check with your vet.
6. Start a bio-security procedure for your farm. Write
to me off-list for details.
For your friends, if the birds are healthy, vaccinate
the birds with the field strain of the avian flu. Buy
the vaccine from a reputable supplier as there are
people taking avantage of the situation selling
nonsence. Vaccinating now will reduce the mortality.
To prevent the avian flu from becoming one that can
spread from human to human and create a disaster for
Indonesia, tell your friends to do the following:
1. If anybody has human flu, do not go near the
chickens. Stay away. Stay far away.
2. All workers must be vaccinated for human flu.
3. All workers must wear N95 masks and gloves.
4. All pig farms near poultry farms must be isolated
and secured. People and vehicles going into the pig
farm must be sterilised. Some means of preventing
wild birds from going into the pig farm must be
implemented.
This is what I can think off for now as I have just
come back from my farm all hot and sweaty.
Good luck.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
57) OMEGA-3 CONTENT OF CHICKEN
"HS Wong"
hs_wong33 at yahoo.com
Sept. 27, 2003
My comment arose from a discussion I had with a
biochemist and a veterinary researcher from the local
agri. university. While they agree that ruminants can
extract most if not all, the necessary nutrients from
grasses and plants, they do not agree that the same is
true for non-ruminants. I think we will not disagree
with them on that point.
However, where there may be a point of contention is
their assertion that poultry cannot extract most of
their required nutrients from plants. They cite their
own field studies where they found that wild jungle
fowl mainly feed on fruits, seeds and nuts in terms of
plant material (which they can more readily digest),
and animals such as insects, fresh water prawns,
snails and leeches. They asserted that it is more
likely that free-range chickens have high omega 3s
from the insects and snails, etc. they eat than from
the plants themselves.
The result of the discussion was the agreement to test
my chickens for omega 3 and other fatty acids and
comparing them with commercial chickens. Arising from
this first test, we intend to do further tests to
narrow down the actual sources of omega 3, if any, -
whether plant or animals or both, and then to
formulate feeding strategies to improve the fatty
acids profile.
My comment on the difficulty of finding sufficient
food or plant sources of omega 3 in a way reflects my
acceptance of some of their arguements concerning the
availability of nutrients from plants. Here, I am
excluding seeds, fruits and grains.
I expect the results from the tests soon.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
56) HOW CHICKEN MASH WAS INVENTED
"Robert Plamondon"
robert at plamondon.com
36475 Norton Creek Rd, Blodgett OR 97326
June 7, 2003
This idea is how chicken mash was invented. The early researchers discovered that if you set out a feeder of beef scrap and a feeder of grain, the chickens laid a lot more eggs than if you left out the beef scrap.
Then they discovered that if you mixed the beef scrap with ground grain, you could get them to eat more beef scrap than they would of their own free will, and this caused a higher egg production.
The third step was to junk up the mash will all sorts of el cheapo ingredients like wheat bran, increasing the fiber, unbalancing the protein, and reducing the palatability of the mash, but reducing its cost. Nobody seemed to notice that this interfered with egg production and rate of growth.
The fourth step, forty years later, was to take the wheat bran and other high-fiber ingredients back out again.
So, yes, you can sneak in stuff the chickens don't like into the feed, and yes, this works fine if you don't overdo it. My impression is, though, that with the exception of overprocessed protein supplements like soybean products and beef scrap, they like what's good for them. If they ignore an ingredient, there's probably a reason.
-- Robert
--
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
55) ENZYMES, PET, LADINO CLOVER - MISC FEED INFO
[Note: This post is best read from bottom up]
Chicken-Feed at YahooGroups
May 4, 2003
I need to know if Fava beans and Crimson Clover are
toxic to chickens as this is a cover crop I have planted in an area
where they will roam.
Johanna
---------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 11:29:55 -0700
From: "Robert Plamondon"
Subject: Speaking of Clover
Speaking of clover, I've posted an Ohio Experiment Station bulletin on the
subject to my Web site at www.plamondon.com/clover.html [Note: page does not come up --ks] . This
bulletin, from 1949, talks about the interaction between pasture quality
and feed rations. With a highly palatable, long-season pasture, such as
ladino clover, the chickens get most of their protein and all of their vitamins
from foraging, and the ration can be greatly simplified. With a grass
pasture, which is neither as palatable nor as long-lasting (once the green
color starts to fade, chickens stop eating it), the protein content of the
ration must be increased.
-- Robert
Robert Plamondon
36475 Norton Creek Rd, Blodgett OR 97326
robert at plamondon.com
---------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 11:27:06 -0700
From: "Robert Plamondon"
Subject: Re: Fava Beans and Crimson Clover
They'll love crimson clover. It's good for them.
Fava beans are almost certainly good for them, too. Generally speaking,
it's
hard to poison chickens unless you starve them into eating things that are
bad for them. If you offer them some kind of vaguely respectable chicken
feed in addition to range, they'll be very selective about the forage they
eat.
-- Robert
---------------------------------
From: HS Wong
Subject: Re: Fava Beans and Crimson Clover
In humans, eating undercooked fava beans gives rise to
the anemic blood disorder called favism.
HS
---------------------------------
What is PET?
From: ravithakre
I have heard of Purified Terephthalic Acid being
used in Chicken / Poultry feed as an ingredient. Can anyone tell me
what purpose it serves. Is it helpful or is this harmful for the
birds. Please give me information in this regard.
About PTA--- it is a raw material used in Polyester
and PET manufacture.
---------------------------------
From: HS Wong
To: ChickenFeed at yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 6:10 PM
Coke comes in PET bottles.
Ravi, some poultry businessmen and feed
manufacturers use antibiotics as growth enhancers. To make the
antibiotics work better, you add PTA.
I use live digestive enzymes to make my chickens
absorb nutrients from feed more completely and their
growth rates are better than chickens fed on
antibiotics.
The antibiotics and PTA way is the way of big
business and scientists. Using nature (live enzymes, etc) is
the way of farmers.
HS
---------------------------------
R.A. Zacla wrote:
You must be referring to lacto-baccili. I've heard
about it's benefits even for swine and cattle, and
even as compost accelerator.
---------------------------------
From: HS Wong
Subject: Re: PTA use in chicken feed
I was referring to enzymes. For example, I sprout
mung beans to 1/4 inch only, and then sprinkle some on
top of regular feed if I need to speed up weight gain
(which is not often).
I do use lacto-baccili on day olds for the first week
to establish friendly intestinal flora fast.
I also hear a lot of good results from use of EM
(Effective Microorganisms) in disinfecting premises,
speeding up composting, returning used pastures to
"health" faster, etc.
Regards
HS
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
54) PREVENTING WORM PARASITES
"Robert Plamondon"
robert at plamondon.com
April 28, 2003
Earthworms are an intermediate host for blackhead and tape worms, aren't
they? But if you're growing worms in a bin and don't add any material from
your flock (or anyone else's flock), the cycle of infection is broken.
Just
don't dig your initial worms out of your chicken yard.
Since these parasites have a complicated life cycle, I don't know how long
they can survive in a worm bin. In any event, if you start out with
uninfested worms, they ought to stay uninfested if you don't feed them
anything from a livestock operation, including the dirt under the animals'
feet.
Robert Plamondon
36475 Norton Creek Rd, Blodgett OR 97326
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
53) DOGS N CHICKENS
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
2. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Michael Pasterik
3. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: jelly40746 at aol.com
4. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Kim & Garth Travis
5. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: "Heika"
6. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
7. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Julia
8. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
9. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
10. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: "Marilyn Holt"
11. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
12. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Julia
13. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: "Heika"
14. RE: Dog/Chickens
From: "C. Johnson"
15. RE: Re: Keeping rabbits above chickens
From: "C. Johnson"
16. Re: Keeping rabbits above chickens
From: "kbdpezz"
17. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
18. chicken cpr
From: jim cartwright
19. Re: chicken cpr
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
20. Re: chicken cpr
From: "Gail Cross"
21. Re: chicken cpr
From: jim cartwright
22. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: "Raul C. Alcazar"
23. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Kim & Garth Travis
24. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Kim & Garth Travis
25. Re: Dog/Chickens
From: Mapetras5 at aol.com
Message: 1
Subject: Dog/Chickens
How do you train a dog/puppy not to kill chickens?
Kathie
Message: 2
I have heard of at least 2 ways, I have not tried either. Our dog is on a
run, and is older, so she isn't much of a problem. The dog is more
annoyed
by the birds coming right up to her house to steal dog food, she then
half-heartedly chases them away.
2 ideas to train the dog, neither sound nice:
1) Take a dead chicken, feathers and all and hang it from the
electric fence. When the pup/dog goes after it, the dog learns that
chickens are electrified, so don't mess with them.
2) If/when the dog does kill one of your birds tie the carcass to
the dogs collar and make the dog drag the thing around with it.
Personally, I don't like either of these methods, and I doubt if the
second
one would even work, the dog would probably just eat the bird. The first
may work if the dog it smart and/or is already electric fence aware.
I thought we would have a problem with cats, but our cats have been around
the chickens all their lives. Even the neighbors and stray cats don't
seem
to bother out birds. I do keep the cats out of the brooder.
If the dog is well behaved and obeys, walking with him among the chickens
and scolding/"No" training may be enough. You don't want the dog to even
chase the birds, as the stress would affect laying.
Mike Pasterik
Providence Pastures Farm
NW Pennsylvania USA
Message: 3
ALWAYS supervise the dog around the chickens. Never trust him alone with
the
birds. Knowledge of basic commands (sit/stay) helps. I've kept the dog
leashed, walking among the chickens to familiarize the dog with the birds.
Might want to pick a time that you're not press with chores. I have a can
of
coins (It's pretty noisy), and I call it my No-No can...it gets the point
across when shaken at the dog. Remember to praise the dog when he's done
good. It can be done, just patience. My dogs now help "herd" the hens back
to
the coop!
~*~*~I am My Dog's Mom ~*~*~
Owned by: Rockie G. (aka Go-me)
Reilly & Einstein
Forever in my heart Patches O'Brindle
(Until we meet again sweety)
Message: 4
Someone gave me this one on another list, it really works. I have a
coydog, so she is real hard to train not to kill. Now-a-days, we have 4
mallard ducks that wander the property and the dog only harasses them, she
does not kill anymore.
Unfortunately, this method involves the dog attacking a bird. When it
does, you wail and cry as if she/he killed one of your children. Pick up
the injured or dead bird, hold it close like a baby and really let go
with
the grief. When I did this, both my dogs, [I have a black lab as well],
put themselves in their house for a week. They haven't killed a thing
[other than mice and rats] in six months, which is a record at my place.
I imagine you would have to give the dog a chance to really bond with you
for this method to work, but it is the only thing I have found that has
worked.
Bright Blessings,
Kim
Message: 5
Ugh. This is amazingly relevant for me, since my pup of 13 1/2 weeks just
killed one of my free range laying hens yesterday. She has been around
the
birds since she came to live with me at 7 weeks of age, and has been
scolded
about chasing the birds. She has done pretty well, until yesterday. She
was in her own fenced yard, and one of the free range girls went into the
yard. I heard the chicken's distress call, and went to investigate, but
it
was too late. I took the chicken away from her, screaming in anger, and
proceeded to chase her around the yard, screeching at the top of my lungs,
smacking her with the dead chicken. Hmmm. I wonder what a professional
dog
trainer would think about that...
Only time will tell if my method was effective... :)
Heika Sample
On a Wing and a Prayer Farm
Sprague River, OR, USA
Message: 6
Interesting?
Kathie
Message: 7
> How do you train a dog/puppy not to kill chickens?
>
That's a tough one. I think a lot depends on the dog. Our older dog
is a mixed breed, husky/shepherd/coyote/akita/primitive dog/nobody
knows and she has a very strong prey drive. She has had a chicken in
her mouth twice but neither time killed or seriously injured the bird.
I think that's only because she was pretty tightly supervised--each
time we were on the scene as she grabbed the bird (came running when we
heard the squawks)--and she's pretty obedient. A loud "DROP IT!" and
she did, each time. That said, I would never trust her to have access
to the birds. When I go into their "inside" coop, which is a room of
straw bales inside a big hangar, she waits by the doorway and watches
carefully, but I'm right there. . .
Our younger dog is a German Shepherd, from German stock and plush
coated (they have a reputation for sweetness, I'm told). He definitely
has a strong prey drive for things like rabbits and ground squirrels,
but two days ago I found out that he's not so bad with chickens. I had
given the hens some scratch, and apparently didn't latch the gate
properly. Later, I looked out from the house, and there was Mocha,
lying on the ground surrounded by curious hens. When one or two pecked
at him he got up, but made no move to chase or threaten them. I ran
out there, thankful that Java was safely in the house, and tried to get
Mocha to help me herd them back into the run. He wasn't too good at
that, though--he's just a big sweet dog.
I'm sure the fact that the chickens were quite familiar to Mocha (and
he to them) made a big difference. He's been watching them through the
netting for over a year. He knows I care for them. I was just lucky
that Java was not outside. I believe breed and personality count for a
lot. I know that for particular livestock guarding breeds, they make
an effort to "socialize" the dog to the particular stock when it is a
young puppy, and that people do this with poultry as well as sheep or
goats. I don't think the dead chicken around the neck thing would
bother a dog at all, unless it's the constant ostracizing such a dog
would get from all the human members of his "pack." Most dogs love
stinky rotting carcasses! But most dogs also want to get along with
their leaders--this is why Java drops the chickens, even though she
wants to kill them.
What kind of dog are you talking about? You're most likely to succeed
with a non-predatory dog, like a Golden Retriever.
Julia in Waunakee
Message: 8
In a message dated 4/21/2003 3:01:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
blueduck at kfalls.net writes:
> I heard the chicken's distress call, and went to investigate, but it
> was too late. I took the chicken away from her, screaming in anger, and
> proceeded to chase her around the yard, screeching at the top of my
lungs,
> smacking her with the dead chicken. Hmmm. I wonder what a professional
> dog
> trainer would think about that...
>
> Only time will tell if my method was effective... :)
>
ROFL... Only because I know what you mean. I raged, something I do NOT do
and then spanked her with a wooded spoon.
My next option is to by a shock collar. I have heard they work well. You
simply watch and every time they approach the dog you shock at different
levels depending on how close they are and behaviour. Any thoughts here?
It
resembles the chicken in the fence but reverses the order a bit and
chickens
are not bound.
The dog is too sweet and too much my little boys dog to trash. She has
been
with them since they were 1 day old and never bothered she is only around
13-14 weeks too, humm, wondering at the age thing.
Kathie
Message: 9
In a message dated 4/21/2003 4:03:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
drfood at tds.net
writes:
> What kind of dog are you talking about? You're most likely to succeed
> with a non-predatory dog, like a Golden Retriever.
>
She is a rat terrier and Black lab mix. Her size is of her mom the rat
terrier but the looks of pappa the black lab. Neither of which are mine.
She has a sweet disposition and earlier would herd the chickens into the
pen
if they escaped. Now she has been caught eating one!! Argh....
Kathie
Message: 10
My experience--from more than 30 years has told me that it ain't gonna
happen. If a dog has already killed a chicken, it will likely go back for
more despite your anger. In fact, according to what I've been told, the dog
may not even relate the punishment to the killing of the bird. The only
dog I ever had success with was a puppy when the chicks were day olds and we
put them together in the same playpen. The communication between the
birds and the pup seemed to do the trick. Unfortunately, that dog was killed
before she was full grown, so we never did find out if the lesson would
carry over to the next lot of birds.
All our other dogs go after the hens and ducks and will kill them with no
provocation although they're gentle with every other animal we have
including kittens. If not killing, they will harrass them and make them
run--apparently for the sheer fun of it. After having layers around for many years,
we have reconciled to the fact that we have to keep the dogs away--it's
annoying but it's the only way to know for sure that it won't happen again.
The breed of dog may make a difference--we've had mostly labs and
retrievers, so of course it's instinct with them. But we also had a tiny shih-tzu
whose main joy in life was knowing he could make the chickens run away from
him.
Trying to teach a dog not to kill birds by giving them a bird to kill
doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
Message: 11
In a message dated 4/21/2003 4:13:48 PM Central Daylight Time,
mholt2726 at rogers.com writes:
> My experience--from more than 30 years has told me that it ain't gonna
> happen. If a dog has already killed a chicken, it will likely go back
for
> more despite your anger. In fact, according to what I've been told, the
> dog may not even relate the punishment to the killing of the bird.
Argh!
> The only dog I ever had success with was a puppy when the chicks were
day
> olds and we put them together in the same playpen.
We did that!
> The communication between the birds and the pup seemed to do the
> trick.Unfortunately, that dog was killed before she was full grown, so
we
> never did find out if the lesson would carry over to the next lot of
birds.
Hummm, I don't think so....
Kathie
Message: 12
On Monday, April 21, 2003, at 04:04 PM, Mapetras5 at aol.com wrote:
> My next option is to by a shock collar. I have heard they work well.
> You
> simply watch and every time they approach the dog you shock at
> different
> levels depending on how close they are and behaviour. Any thoughts
> here?
An e-collar may be useful. Just make sure you put the time in to teach
the dog about it properly, otherwise you can really freak out the dog.
You want to take the dog out to some neutral safe place, like an empty
dog park or fenced in area, and let the dog wander around. Watching
the dog carefully, try the lowest setting on the collar. You're
looking for just a bit of a reaction--sort of a "hey, what was that?"
where she picks her head up suddenly. That's the right level to use
most of the time.
If later on she has learned all about the collar and you give a command
and she deliberately tries something else, then you might use one level
higher. Just don't crank the thing up to max and "zap" her--you can
easily end up with a dog that's scared of the collar and can't learn
anything with it on.
I wouldn't shock the dog for having the chickens approach her--rather,
for her focussing too much on the chickens. You'd want to teach her
to ignore the birds and come to you no matter what. However, if she
were to suddenly grab a bird, then that might be a good time for a
mighty zap!
> Now she has been caught eating one!! Argh....
Oooh, boy--she was actually eating the bird? That's going to make it
tougher, for sure. Lots of dogs never figure out how to "open up" a
dead prey animal, so the food aspect never gets into it. I think
that's the rat terrier coming out, and that's going to be really
difficult. Do you really need to have the dog loose amongst the
chickens? I think she's sounding more like my older dog--not to be
trusted. If you work hard, you can train her to stay at the gate and
not enter the pen, etc, but I'll be really impressed if she'll ever let
a loose chicken pass in front of her nose without grabbing it, now that
she knows what's under the feathers!!
Sorry to be negative. Good luck to you!
Julia in Waunakee
Message: 13
Hmmm.... I have an older dog, an American Pit Bull Terrier, that has a
very
high prey drive. He has killed birds before... but doesn't now. At
least,
not too often. It has been over a year since he has done it, and the last
time was in the company of another dog. I think this was an instance of
pack mentality. We sorted it out, the two of us. He walks quite calmly
among the birds now, and will avoid the turkeys when they follow him
around
gobbling. As long as he isn't in the company of another dog, I trust him
completely. Because of my experience with him, I believe it is possible
to
retrain a dog to be at least better around poultry, although perfect may
not
be an attainable goal.
Heika Sample
On a Wing and a Prayer Farm
Sprague River, OR, USA
Message: 14
Kathie thanks for the tip i should have try this on my dalmation when he
killed the rooster thanks DJ
Message: 15
Val i just gave the bunnies poultry pullets and greens like kale scraps
etc.
My hens have a mean streak also and the bunnies learn to fight back. They
can be nasty also.DJ
Message: 16
Subject: Re: Keeping rabbits above chickens
Just wondering do your chickens and rabbits sleep in the same house
or how does that work?
Kristen
Woodhaven Farm
Message: 17
In a message dated 4/21/2003 4:25:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
drfood at tds.net
writes:
> I wouldn't shock the dog for having the chickens approach her--rather,
> for her focussing too much on the chickens.
Of course. My thought was if she focuses on them as in chases or attempts
to
attack then try the lowest until I get a response. Shouldn't take much,
please?
> You'd want to teach her to ignore the birds and come to you no matter
what.
> However, if she were to suddenly grab a bird, then that might be a good
> time for a
> mighty zap!
My idea exactly. I don't like the thing but I may try it.
> >Now she has been caught eating one!! Argh....
>
> Oooh, boy--she was actually eating the bird? That's going to make it
> tougher, for sure. Lots of dogs never figure out how to "open up" a
> dead prey animal, so the food aspect never gets into it. I think
> that's the rat terrier coming out, and that's going to be really
> difficult. Do you really need to have the dog loose amongst the
> chickens?
They are not and she is not. However they do get loose and she does get
to
the other yard. We have two back yards and the chickens are in a yard
separate still.
> I think she's sounding more like my older dog--not to be
> trusted. If you work hard, you can train her to stay at the gate and
> not enter the pen, etc, but I'll be really impressed if she'll ever let
> a loose chicken pass in front of her nose without grabbing it, now that
> she knows what's under the feathers!!
She is a very smart dog. She can even open them back screen door to come
in
and out! She is still very young too, around 4 months. So here is
hoping.
>
> Sorry to be negative. Good luck to you!
Honesty is reality. I deal with facts and this is a fact of life. We, my
family, livestock, and pets, must all coexist and it is my responsibility
as
manager of the home to figure out how to do this.
Thanks for the advice,
Kathie
Message: 18
Subject: chicken cpr
While talking with my friend,my four year old was showing her four year
old how to bath a chicken.My little helper came running to me shouting, daddy
I've done something to"squalkie'', when I rounded the corner, she was
lifeless, the chicken I mean.I look around,asking my little girl what happened.
She informed me that she was only giving"squalkie"a bath. The bird was
dead,or so close that I didn't know the difference. I picked her up, turned
her head down and depressed her chest. with each depression, I was a little
firmer. She finely through her head back and water drizzled from her mouth.
This kept me pumping for 15minutes, her eyes opened and she lifted her head
more. At that point, I wrapped her in a towel, and placed her in the nest
boxes. the next morning she was running around like nothing happened, and
two days latter she is laying. true story------Jim
Message: 19
Subject: Re: chicken cpr
This was a hillarious story. I can see it. I have 6 children and believe
me
I can see it. ROFL
Kathie
Message: 20
Subject: Re: chicken cpr
Bless you, Jim, for perservering to save that feathered life. I think
that's fabulous, and now I've learned something that just may come in
handy
someday.
Gail in MO
Message: 21
Subject: Re: chicken cpr
I was so wound up, I should of edited befor sending. but itis funny now.
some grammer errors aside
Message: 22
Subject: Re: Dog/Chickens
I keep my dogs full and satisfied. Hungry animals will take on anything
to satisfy their stomach. I don't give them raw chicken entrails or raw
chicken head or feet, not even feathers. I cook them first(except the
feathers) before I give to the dogs.
Message: 23
I had tried the chicken around the neck, the severe spankings [I never hit
her for anything else], tying my dog up, etc. But I did train a dog that
goes after prey by wailing with grief, not anger. My girl is 1/2 coyote
and 1/2 blue heeler. If your dog is bonded with you, this really does
work.
Bright Blessings,
Kim
Message: 24
I do not give them a bird to kill, but if they have the temperament to
kill
a chicken it will happen. When it does, then apply the grief
method. Dusty has killed in the past and now is safe with full grown
mallards loose in the yard. I would not leave her alone with baby chicks,
that would be tempting fate. But she no longer digs under fences to get
them.
Bright Blessings,
Kim
Message: 25
In a message dated 4/22/2003 6:36:31 AM Central Daylight Time,
alcazar at digitelone.com writes:
> I keep my dogs full and satisfied. Hungry animals will take on anything
to
> satisfy their stomach. I don't give them raw chicken entrails or raw
> chicken head or feet, not even feathers.
This may have been where our trouble started. Believe me she is a well
fed
dog. When I butchered the turkeys she found where we buried the heads. I
think that started the whole mess and she was in the first yard watching
us
in the second. She is smart, like I said earlier.
Kathie
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52) STICKY CHICKS OR STUCK CHICKS?
April 9, 2003
HS Wong
Sticky chicks or stuck chicks? Sticky chicks have gooey stuff
all over and one of the causes (the most common one) is too high humidity!
Your chicks have not lost enough "water"; hence the "sticky" stuff. On the
other hand, if your chicks are "stuck" to the internal surface of the shell
and suffocates, etc., that's due to too little humidity. They dry out too
fast and gets stuck to the membrance which prevents them from turning in
the shell, or from breaking the shell completely.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
51) HEN TO ACCEPT BABY CHICKS -- HOW?
April 9, 2003
Kristine at ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com
The only way it will work is if they have been setting close to the normal
time on fake eggs. Then you slip them in under them at night when they
are not really awake enough. Otherwise if the hen has not been setting the
chick is just a nuisance.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
50) LAST DAYS OF INCUBATION
April 9, 2003
Ruth Bloch at ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com
On day 18, take the turner out and lay the eggs on their
side, fill the reservoir, close the lid and don't open it again until the
chicks are finished hatching and dry. Then you can move them to a nice warm
brooder you should have all set up and waiting for them. I always like to
turn on the heat lamp on the 20th day so it's nice and toasty.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
49) WILL CHICKENS EAT ANTS?
March 25, 2003
ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com
"None of my poultry eat ants. Not even the guineas. We seem to have two
different kinds around here. The tiny little sweet and grease eating ants
and the larger carpenter ants."
"In the fall when the carpenter ants swarm to build new colonies, my hens
and guineas have a feast! They eat tons of them."
"All I know is the only part of my yard that doesn't get fire ants is the
chicken yard!"
"yes, they love 'em"
"Maybe your ants are tastier than mine? My ducks will eat the grubs but
nothing here eats the ant itself. Maybe it's time I got an aardvaark."
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48) TURMERIC AND GARLIC FOR CRD
March 25, 2003
HS Wong
Death from CRD I have found from experience is often
due to complications arising from other bacterial
infection as a result of weakened immune system - e
coli for example will cause death in a weakened bird
and the tell-tale signs of 'cheesy exudates' will be
found on necropsy. [C'Feed Note: Chronic Respiratory Disease, for a good discussion, see the Queensland, Australia Poultry Diseases Website]
CRD is readily treated using antibiotics though I have
found faster response from garlic and tumeric - 3 days
as opposed to 5 to 8 days for antibiotics. [C'Feed Note: tumeric and turmeric are the same thing; both spellings are correct.] In my
experience, using garlic and tumeric tends to lessen
complications from secondary infection also.
Antibiotics does not seem to have as good a protective
effect against secondary infection possibly due to
bacterial resistance, and also possibly due to the
fact that it does not help boost immune system as
tumeric would. (Asian traditional longetivity cocktail
- pound fresh tumeric and squeeze out one
tablespoon pure juice. Mix in some top quality honey
(manuka is best) and drink it once a week.)
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47) FEED ECONOMY DISCUSSION
February 23, 2003
ChickenFeed at YahooGroups.com
------------ post on Feb 23, 2003-------------
I have 40 laying chickens. Actually 34 hens. They cost me 300 lbs or
more a month.I buy laying mash at $12 per 100lbs.
My thought is can I add shelled corn which I can get for $8.00 per
100lbs. To help reduce the cost here. 200 lbs laying mash, 100 lbs
shelled corn?
Everything else to help mix different ingredients are too expensive
and just as well keep buying the laying mass.
Any other tips to help reduce cost. All is greatly welcome
---------------------Reply #1------------------------
You saved 4.00 a month!!! What does that cost your hens in lost protein??
Corn is a good source of carbs, but not a good source of protiens,
vitamins, minerals... So I guess the big question is why do you want to reduce
your costs? Are these eggs for a little side business of egg sales, if they
were laying at 50%, you would get 42 dozen eggs a month, at 1.00 a dozen, you
are covering your feed bill. If you are tight for cash and can't afford the
extra 4.00 a month, lose some of the birds. If you just want a flock of
birds and don't care much about production.....add the corn. It just depends
on your situation. Where else can you get good feed supplements, try your
local grocer, he is probably pitching out a lot of produce that is getting a
little old. Hens won't mind, especially in the winter. Restaurants do the
same thing. Set up a deal with the local business, you supply some buckets,
they fill them. That's even cheaper than corn and better for the birds.
----------------------Reply #2------------------------
I can't remember how long it has been since I could spend $36.00 a month
on
feed. I feed a ton a month. I would be happy to get laying mash at $6.00
a
bag... where do you live? Even at the ton price, my feed doesn't fall
below
$7.45 for a 50 lb bag of laying pellets. Why don't you sell some of your
eggs to offset costs? If each of your birds lay 25 eggs a month, that
would
be 900 eggs... 75 dozen. If you sold even half of those at a buck a
carton,
your birds would support themselves. If you sold a few more, you would
actually make a profit. Or, incubate a few eggs and sell the chicks.
Don't
know what kind of birds we are talking about, so I can't do the math... :)
Since I have owned my birds, I have never made a profit... however, that
makes for a wonderful tax deduction. It lowers my income by around
$6000.00, which is incredibly valuable. I wouldn't mess with the quality
of
the feed. Just doesn't pay off in the end. Might want to consider
growing
a garden for your girls... they love fresh veggies, its good for them, and
it would reduce the amount of dry feed they eat.
-------------------Reply #3------------------------------
I understand the want to reduce feed costs. A lot of talk is done about
selling eggs and that is really an easy thing. We sell our overage at
1.50 a
dozen. My feed cost is 14.85/100# We get 16-18 eggs a day faithfully out
of
20 hens and one rooster. He doesn't lay eggs but gotta keep my girls
happy. <
g> We light them in the winter so this is pretty steady. My family alone
uses a dozen a day on the average. This is going to be going up as my boys
get older too. So at present that means 30 dozen a month average.
That means if I bought my own eggs it would cost me $45 a month and we use
around 200# of feed a month, cost $30, in actuality more like 160-180#.
That
is only in feed! Pretty good deal. It also means I sell around 5-10
dozen a
month average. So I make around 10.00 to 15.00 a month. So my actual
benefit in simple terms is around $15/mo. Now this doesn't count the
benefits from fertilizer, teaching tools for my children or the just plain
companionship. I love to 'visit my girls'. I also spend another $5 on
litter a month.
Sounds good to me. Of course I still am not counting the occasional
vitamin
or the replacement chicks. Just bought 30 replacements at 1.75 each,
including shipping. I do this every other year. That is $50 and that
doesn't include the food to raise them to laying stage. I am going to
guess
around 45.00 in feed to raise.
This means my total for replacement is around $100 to $150. I will either
put the old chickens in a pot or sell them to the folks around here for
$3-4
as two year old layers. Bringing back around 50.00. If I eat a couple
that
averages still a dollar a pound for the bird and that isn't too bad
either.
So that adds around $3/MO to my cost average over two years. You guys are
welcome to check my figures. Looks like I am just about breaking even
monetarily speaking. Using Storey's figures my cost per dozen should be
around 75 cents or there abouts. This includes everything.
I did not add in the cost of housing as I took that as a total lose year.
I
think the investment was around $300. And then $130 on birds, as I bought
4
month old birds to cut time and speed production along that first year.
They
were laying in around 4 weeks.
Bottom line...First I would make sure I was getting the best cost of the
best
feed. Then second make sure you are not overfeeding. Next I would
supplement the feed with kitchen and other scraps. We give them all the
grass
clippings in the mowing months, all but three here. Don't forget to visit
them for some reason, mabey some here can explain it the lay better if
held,
stroked, and talked to on occasion. Then I would not forget to sell the
overage and count my own consumption as a profit. Here organic eggs sell
for
3.50 a dozen at the store so my $1.50 is a pretty good buy. LOL
[And later..] My daughter, the main one who feeds claims we only use around 120# a
month. She is more accurate I think. She told me she is feeding around 4 # a
day.
---------------Reply #4--------------
Hmmm, doesn't that seem like a lot of feed? I have only seven hens,
so, ~1/5 the number you have. They do not go through anything near 60
pounds of feed every month--that would have me buying a new 50lb bag
every 25 days or so...
I do give them table scraps and "scratch" mix, which is just cracked
corn and wheat berries. They're getting more scratch now that it's so
cold outside. Egg production has gone down, but they are still laying.
. .
I agree with the idea about seeking out free scraps from grocery stores
and restaurants--take that stuff out of the garbage stream (to be
packed in landfills--how dumb is that?) and give it to the chickens,
who will make lovely compost out of it if you give them plenty of
carbon-rich bedding. Then you could sell the eggs and the compost!!
Maybe you've got some mice eating your feed?
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46) WINTER WASTE
December 3, 2002
Ruth Bloch
I use the deep litter system. When it does come time to empty the litter, I apply it to the tops of my raised beds in layers where it "sheet" composts through the winter. I occasionally let the chickens in there to scratch it up and stir it around for me and I am very happy with their work! I also use it as mulch for my rose and perrenial gardens, just spread it around in layers just up to but not touching the base of the plants. Great stuff!
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45) WINTER WASTE
December 3, 2002
Julia
> Hi All,
> What the heck do normal people do with the waste during the winter?
> With
> the heat lamp on, it stays around 0C (32F) in the coop.
Hi,
I'm in Wisconsin, and our coop is also around freezing. I'm using the
deep litter system, which means that there is already probably eight
inches of mulch (shredded tree trimmings, fluffy dry leaves, a little
straw, some sawdust and a lot of wood shavings) down on the concrete
floor. I just keep adding more and more to it. The chickens' "coop"
is actually an insulated room built of straw bales and other things
that's inside our hangar (basically a metal shed pole barn). They have
a run outdoors, but in the past few days I closed it off since it's
been so cold. We finally have snow!
My husband is a woodworker (as a hobby) who likes to buy unfinished
wood and run it through a planer and a jointer to finish it. This
generates lots and lots of wonderful wood shavings--not as dusty as
sawdust, but light and fluffy. I've got big trash bags full in the
hangar and every time I go in I keep throwing more down wherever I see
the droppings. If it's not too cold, I do a little digging around to
keep everything mixed up. Theoretically the composting droppings will
generate some heat--not sure I'm seeing that.
In the spring I plan to move the chickens back outside and move their
sleeping coop (an insulated box on legs) back outside as well. Then
I'll decide if I can just let the winter bedding compost where it is or
if I should (more likely) wheelbarrow the whole thing out to the
compost bins. I haven't had a problem with odor as long as I keep
mixing in lots and lots of carbon stuff, just like any compost pile. I
only have seven chickens so I've been able to keep up with it so far.
The end of summer coop clean out produced nine wheel-barrow-loads of
the most fantastic black and fluffy compost!
I think the compost is the most valuable thing my chickens produce,
although I like the eggs, too.
Julia
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44) TRANS FATS
Alice Royle (with > arrows)
Union Point Custom Feeds
Brownsville, Oregon
Scott Royer, responding
February 24, 2002
> I am not a big fan of hydrogenated vegetable oils, We don't
> use them here
Most people are starting to get a sense that they're not very good
for you. Unfortunately, most people don't realize that they are
probably one of the single most unhealthy things that they
voluntarily put into their bodies. The US government is finally
planning on requiring trans fat content labelling as part of the
nutrition label despite several decades of heavy spending and
lobbying by the food processing and seed-oil industries. There is
long and sordid history to trans-fats that will hopefully come to an
end soon. I am a firm believer that they should actually be banned
for use in both human and animal foods. If they want to make
plastics or industrial lubricants from it, they're welcome to do so,
but it has no place anywhere in the food chain.
> As you know, we are a custom mill, so in addition to our
> own line of feeds, we make feeds folks request.
> So if they don't want to use tallow -- and being very
> familiar with a
> rendering plant I can understand that -- they need to use a
> vegetable oil.
I can certainly understand and respect your decision to carry it.
That is simply good business. What I would hope to correct, however,
is the error in judgement or lack of knowledge that leads people to
request those products in the first place. For what it's worth, I
agree completely that the conditions of rendering plants as well as
much of the rest of the slaughter and pre-slaughter conditions are
descpicable. The answer, however, is not turning to sub-standard
alternatives like hydrogenated vegetable oils.
I understand and sympathize with the cost issues too. If you are
producing your poultry for the conventional markets and competing in
that way, perhaps there's no choice but to go with hydr. oils. I
don't know, I can't pretend to know other's circumstances. If,
however, you are producing for yourself or for a direct market that
has specific standards, I seriously recommend avoiding the stuff if
at all possible.
> I can't claim to have read those particular studies. Are
> you saying that all studies on hydrogenated vegetable oils say
> that it is "extremely bad"? I am not sure about the science
> behind that claim.
I would say that yours is an understandable and healthy skepticism.
I would also suggest that you use the following links to investigate
the issue to your own satisfaction. The first one should pull up a
list of research press-releases relating to trans-fatty acids (the
bad stuff in hydrogenated oils). You won't find a single one that
came up with inconclusive results nor will you find one that
validates trans-fats as a healthy or safe food. If anyone is aware
of studies that have concluded otherwise, I would be greatly
interested. The other link relates to a lipid researcher at the
University of Maryland who has been fighting the deep industry
pockets for decades to expose trans-fats for what they really are:
low grade poison. This second link is really the more informative of
the two. The links in the yellow box near the bottom of the page are
very enlightening.
Hope this helps!
http://search.eurekalert.org/e3/query.html?col=ev3rel&qc=ev3rel&qt=trans-fatty+acid
http://www.enig.com/trans.html
Scott
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43) FATS IN FEEDS
"Robert Plamondon"
robert at plamondon.com
February 21, 2002
Basically, you don't want to put anything into the chicken feed if you don't
know where it came from. And when you find out where it came from, one of
the things you're looking for is whether everyone up and down the line was
taking care of it.
Go out behind a few restaurants and look at the grease dumpsters. The only
big difference between the garbage dumpsters and the grease dumpsters is
that the garbage is fresher, because it gets picked up on a regular
schedule....
Slaughterhouse byproducts like beef tallow probably aren't as variable as
restaurant grease, since the tallow is manufactured at the slaughterhouse
and there's money riding on having it done right, since many users of tallow
aren't cheapskates like the yellow grease users, but are using tallow
because it's the best thing for their application. You'd want to find a
supplier that's knowlegeable about tallow, stores it properly, and never
sells anything that's below grade. That's what suppliers are for.
Non-by products are probably the safest in terms of product quality, because
the producer's whole income is riding on it (rather than just a tiny
fraction, as with byproducts). But high-quality byproducts can be just as
good as far more expensive products. The trick lies in being able to tell.
It's an expert's game.
It's a good idea to leaf through the pages of poultry nutrition books to see
what's said about the individual ingredients, because many of them have
different effects on poultry than in man or other livestock. But it's also
a good idea to talk to your supplier and ask him about the quality and
variability of the ingredients. Stuff that looks good on paper isn't good
in reality unless it's been produced and handled with a reasonable amount of
TLC.
-- Robert
--
Robert Plamondon *robert at plamondon.com
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42) YELLOW GREASE
Alice Royle
Union Point Custom Feeds
Brownsville, OR
February 18, 2002
Yellow grease is recycled fry oil and other oily restaurant waste that
they don't want to pour down the drain for fear of plugging it up. It
is also illegal to pour it down the drain in most places because it is
hard on the water treatment plants. It's a common ingredient in pet
food, and is in some feeds. It is vegetable oil based.
It varies widely in quality. It can be nearly usable as human food, or
it can be rancid and full of peroxides. Peroxides form when oils turn
rancid, and can be carcinogenic. To combat that, antioxidants are added
to the yellow grease at the renderer's plant. These can be innocuous
amino acids, or less expensive more questionable things. It's like
anything else, you have to know your sources if you want to use it.
There is good stuff and bad stuff.
Around here, there is one outfit that sells much more expensive yellow
grease, and one that sells it cheap. There's a big difference in
quality and additives between the two products. We aren't using any
just now, but I expect we will carry some of the better stuff for use in
boosting fat content for special high fat diets.
There is also tallow, which is rendered animal fat. That's pretty gross.
It is sold by the same folks that sell yellow grease (but not to me).
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41) YELLOW FAT
Ali
Upstate New York
February, 2002
HELLO, I LIVE IN UPSTATE NEW YORK AND HAVE 6
CHICKEN IN A COOP. I HAVE A FRIEND WHO WORKS IN A
RENDERING PLANT AND GIVES ME BONE MEAL. MY QUESTION IS, CAN
I USE YELLOW FAT FOR MY CHICKENS AND IF SO HOW.
[Kim Salisbury replies]
Hi, Ali,
What is yellow fat?
[Ali replies]
KIM, YELLOW FAT IS A BY PRODUCT OF PROCESSED ANIMALS.
I CAN GET IT AT THE RENDERING PLANT. JIT HAS ALOT OF
USES, LIPSTICK, OIL, WHATEVER, ITS ALOT LIKE LARD. ALI
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40) ORGANIC CERTIFICATION ISSUES
Lucy Owlsley
Boulder Belt Organics, Ohio
http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/boulderbeltcsa
Lucy Goodman-Owsley,
goodows at infinet.com
And Kim Salisbury, ChickenFeed owner
January 25, 2002
Lucy:
"I personally do not like the national rule and may well not recertify and
call my food something other than organic or figure that enforcement
will be
lax and continue to use the O word."
Kim:
Do you mean to say that enforcement might be too stringent for you to keep
on being organic certified? Like the treated lumber issue? What other
things are too stringent --- can you tell us a few, please? What a shame
that such little items make it impossible to be certified! Isn't there a
way to rectify them, block them in with impermeable sheeting or something,
and get an exception?
Lucy:
I actually mean the opposite-the rules are less stringent with the USDA
than with my old certifier ( http://www.oeffa.com- they have posted
the new organic regs on their site if anyone wants to read them) [Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association] . I have
been following more stringent rules for years. And I don't believe the
enforcement will have any teeth. They can barely cover inspections, much
less having inspectors becoming a police force at all farmer's markets
and farm stands. At this point in time it is easy to call your stuff
organic when you are not certified with no repercussions. I don't see
the USDA beefing up enforcement.
My problem with the USDA regs are many. The biggest problems I have are,
among others, the composting rules, which make no sense. They want
everyone to hot compost for, IIRC, 4 weeks with the pile(s) being turned
daily. This is pretty much impossible for the small holder to do without
hired help and/or expensive equipment (a tractor with a loader at the
very least). If compost is not treated this way than it is considered
the same as raw manure. This means the pile you have sitting around that
is over 1 year old but was never hot composted would not be useable on a
certified organic farm as of Aug. 2002.
The other beef I have is with inspection. In the past the inspector was
allowed to give the grower tips on how to make the farm better. if they
saw a problem the inspector was allowed to give the farmer ideas on how
to correct the problem. No more. The USDA feels that that would be a
conflict of interest so now the inspectors can only ask questions and
never make suggestions. I feel this will start a culture of secrecy with
the organic farmers. The USDA will also not allow any certified organic
farmer to sit on any local organic certification board again due to
conflict of interest.
I also don't like the fact that organic processed foods will be allowed
something like 5% of non organic ingredients in them and will still be
able to maintain their organic status.
These rules are being created for the big farms and corporations, not
for the small farms that gave birth to the organic movement. This
perhaps is my biggest beef of all with the new regulations
So I may not recertify but it's not because the rules are more stringent
but rather because they are getting more lax and are written for the big
guys not us small holders.
On a positive, note Eliot Coleman is trying to come up with an
independent system to "certify" small organic farmers. Right now he is
calling it "Authentic Food" and there is a lively discussion on a market
farming list (subscription info below) about this movement. Why, one
could say that the list is fostering the birth of this new food movement.
To subscribe send a blank email to
subscribe-market-farming at franklin.oit.unc.edu
Get the list FAQ at:
http://www.marketfarming.net/mflistfaq.htm
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39) CHICKEN GUARD DOGS
Boulder Belt Organics, Ohio
http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/boulderbeltcsa
Lucy Goodman-Owsley,
goodows at infinet.com
November 14, 2001
We have lots of free range chickens that we raise for meat and eggs. Arlo, our Rottweiler mix, has the job of guarding the chickens and the garden from predators and pests. He is looking guilty because he knows he is not supposed to be in the garden areas and is being told "Out of the garden" by me. He sneeks in anyway to be close to his humans and to take a nap while we work. Overall he has been a great dog. He knows not to go into planting beds and takes his guarding job seriously. We feel that he has been responsible for the fact that fewer than 30 chickens in 5 years have been taken by predators and that deer do not do much damage to the garden beds. Dogs can be a very important asset to any farm.
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38) GAPEWORM PARASITES IN EARTHWORMS
From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com
November 13, 2001
[NOTE: See Robert in our Online Experts]
It's true that earthworms can be an intermediate host for gapeworms, but I
don't think this a compelling argument against earthworms.
(The compelling argument against earthworms is that it's probably not worth
your time to raise them for chicken feed, with soybeans so cheap. On the
other hand, raising them for fishing worms might be lucrative. Not every
area is well-served with fresh, vigorous fishing worms.)
Gapeworms, being worms, aren't very mobile, and in many places they simply
don't exist, so no precautions need to be taken.
In areas with gapeworms, they're best controlled in the same way as
blackhead, with long-term pasture rotation where you always keep the birds
on a stretch of ground that hasn't been used in a couple of years. Low
stocking density, the use of portable houses, and the plowing of the areas
around houses that get a big manure build-up are helpful.
Like blackhead, a farm that's contaminated with gapeworms from corner to
corner will force you to give up poultry or raise them in confinement for a
couple of years. Without poultry as a terminal host, they won't breed and
will eventually die out.
The real issue is range. Earthworms on a range contaminated with blackhead
or gapeworms will themselves become contaminated; worms on clean range will
not. If you have contaminated range, you'd want to raise both your chickens
and your worms in confinement, and start with store-bought worms rather than
ones from your own soil.
Since you can't tell how infested the soil is by looking at it, the safest
thing to do is to practice range rotation on spec.
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37) ADVANTAGE FOR WHOM? IS "ADVANTAGE" SAFE?
From: "Donna Fezler" gcr at rhealiving.com
April 18, 2001
[NOTE: See Donna in our Online Experts]
I would have to see this study [Note: this refers to Bayer's own study claiming Advantage to be safe, which dosed dogs and cats three times with excessive doses.] to determine what
they described as "no adverse effects." In many of these toxicity studies
with no adverse effects, if the animal shows no outward physical signs, it is
deemed acceptable even though there may be changes in liver enzymes or
cellular conformation.
The typical model for toxicity in rats is a mere 13 weeks. [Note: Donna reported a few days ago --- "I found NO long term
toxicity studies or even a decent rat study. I would love to see its
effects on birds, but there are no studies."] The rats are
challenged at several dosage levels. Depending on who is doing the study
and who funds it, the researchers determine the safe level by which animal
exhibits physical symptoms or profound blood or cellular changes. Often
they are only looking at one issue like precancerous cells and ignoring
anything else (if we don't look for it then everything is OK). I would have
to read the protocol and the fine print.
The other BIG issue is what kind of diet were these animals on? Standard
pet food we get in the store complete with "meat by-products" and rancid
fats-poisons in their own right- or the much more rigidly controlled lab
animal diet?
These company-funded studies are not available, therefore the conclusions
are still suspect. I would put money on the animals developing a thyroid
problem or an autoimmune syndrome over time if fed standard grocery store
dog food.
Since we have had free range chickens we have had no fleas.
Donna Fezler
Note: We are exploring this issue due to our commitment to health. The chemical that Advantage is composed of is Imidacloprid, which has been used as an insecticide on our fruits and vegetables for years. It attacks the nervous systems of insects, causing death. Many claim it has no adverse effects, while many others are voicing concerns that these effects have not been studied at all thoroughly. Donna found several reports that state that the chemical may cause adverse effects in larger animals. Another entity voicing concern is the official Beet Growers association of England, which states that the safety tests for Imidacloprid are not at all substantial. Another group that is highly concerned about the use of the chemical is the honeybee keepers of France.
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36) MANAGING COCCIDOSIS WITH DEEP LITTER
Michaele Blakeley, mjb at premier1.net
Growing Things
Carnation WA
April, 2001
I've used a deep litter system with my birds since I started raising chickens. It's been quite awhile now. Management and maintenance depends upon whether it is a brooder situation or a henhouse.
For my brooder (and I've succussfully brooded up to 300 at a time) I first place a layer of chicken feed sacks on the floor of the brooder (this is a nice carbon start), food is scattered over the sacks for the first day and the chicks peck at that. By the second day it is time to put sawdust down and the feeders go out. Every day when I check on the chicks (am and pm) I look for wet litter. If I find some a scoop or two of sawdust goes over it. As the chicks get older a daily application of sawdust is needed to keep things clean. I never stir the litter and it stays dry, the chicks stay clean and healthy. The added benefit is that as the litter composts it heats the brooder up and I use less heat lamps. All feeders and waterers are set on blocks to keep them off the floor and lessen the chance of litter and feet getting into the water or food. This has to be adjusted as time goes on.
With each new flock, I repeat the same procedure. Eventually, I do have to scoop out some of the litter as the floor gets too high for the lamps.
This system has worked great for me for well over fifteen years. I've never had an outbreak of disease except for once and that was because I had someone taking care of them that did not understand the system. The birds have never been on medicated feed.
I have the brooder in the greenhouse during the fall, winter and early spring. This helps give them sunshine when it is still too cool for outdoors. As they get larger I have a door and a mini ramp for the chicks to come and go and they wander the greenhouse during the day and back into the brooder at night.
For my hens (up to 600) at a time in one house I also use a deep litter system. This never gets turned! In order for a deep litter system to work, the hens need to have a roosting pit over their roosts. The rest of the floor is covered with some sort of litter (I use straw). As the straw decomposes I add another bale. Generally that's a bale of straw every 6 weeks or so, sometimes more. The only maintenance I have is cleaning it out if it floods. Sometimes I don't even do that. Sometimes I put several bales of straw down on the wet littler and throw grain on the straw then let the chickens do the turning. The manure under the pits decomposes on it's own, doesn't smell, and becomes crumbly aged chicken manure that gets added occasionaly to our composts.
This year the litter had gotten over a foot deep and it was time to haul some out. I was able to get enough to cover a new corn area. It was rich beautiful compost. The chickens stay healthy with this system and there have been no diseases.
There are no flies and no ammonia odor. It is basically a very low maintenance and economical way of keeping healthy chickens and making wonderful compost.
As far as waterers are concerned. They are all automatic, but are placed on a wire basket which is placed on sand outdoors. Sand is also put around the waterers on a regular basis. Bacteria cannot grow in sand and that helps eliminate the possibility of spreading disease through the mud that seems inevitable around waterers.
Shirley, there are a couple of diseases that have bloody diarhea. They also have other symptoms. Get the Chicken Health Handbook by Gail Damerow. I have several diagnostic books and hers is the easiest to follow if your in need of a quick answer.
There are two strains of coccidiosis. One can infect chicks at a very young age, the other waits for the chick to be older and will also infect older birds. Don't rule it out just because they aren't the "right age".
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35) LIST OF ANTIBIOTICS USED IN FEED
From a Google Search of Newsgroups
The most common found antibiotics in poultry, beef, and canned animal foods are: Chlortetracycline, Monensin, Oxytetracycline, Sulfamethazine, and Sulfaquinoxaline. Antibiotics consumed in food over an extended period of time will build up a resistance to that family of antibiotics. If antibiotic treatment is required, the antibiotic may not be able to accomplish its ability to fight of bacterial infection due to the resistance of the immune system...
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34) ANTIBIOTICS IN FEED
By Shannon Brownlee
Washington Post
Sunday, May 21, 2000
http://www.purefood.org/Toxic/antibioticsinfeed.cfm
Lester Crawford was not actually there for the revolution in animal agriculture, but he knows the story so well he might as well have been. The year was 1949, the place was an American Cyanamid plant on the Pearl River, just north of New York City. People had been noticing that the fish swimming downstream from the pharmaceutical plant were larger than average, and chemist Thomas Jukes set out to discover why.
As Crawford tells it, the plant was manufacturing the antibiotic tetracycline, but the process wasn't very efficient. Chemists grew tetracycline-producing mold on a "mash" of grain in giant vats. After extracting only about 5 percent of the drug, they dumped the leftovers into the river.
When Jukes fed the mash to laboratory animals, the results were astonishing: Chicks grew 10 to 20 percent faster than those on plain rations. Piglets did even better. "Mice, chickens, whatever, they grew like crazy," says Crawford. Cyanamid marketed the mash as a feed booster, until Jukes determined that the active ingredient in this magical concoction was the tetracycline itself.
Jukes's discovery--that animals fed low doses of antibiotics grow bigger faster and on less food--enabled millions of farmers to get pigs, poultry and cattle to market weight at less expense, and helped America become the agricultural powerhouse it is today. But there is no free hamburger, it seems, and Jukes's discovery has turned out to have a potentially deadly downside: The more we use antibiotics, the more bacteria evolve into forms that resist them. Which means that farmers are inadvertently helping to create new and potentially deadly strains of food-borne illnesses that can't be cured by many of our best drugs.
Now we are running out of medicines that work. It's time to stop squandering drugs as precious as antibiotics to reduce the price of meat by a few cents a pound.
It's troubling to realize how long these concerns have been around. Crawford, who worked alongside Jukes in the 1960s, was among the scientists who recognized the dangers inherent in adding antibiotics to livestock feed a quarter-century ago. In the mid-'70s he found himself opposing Jukes, spearheading the Food and Drug Administration's first fight to end the use of antibiotics to promote growth in animals. The FDA lost that battle in 1980. Twenty years later, the agency is--ever so tentatively--poised to try again.
This time it has a new weapon: Scientists have finally been able to establish a chain of evidence linking antibiotics in animal feed to a particular human in a hospital bed. Until now, the powerful farm and drug lobbies have been able to exploit the lack of proof to block efforts to restrict the use of antibiotics. That may no longer work. This month, Cathy Woteki--an undersecretary in the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which historically has sided more with the farmers than the FDA--conceded that "antibiotic use in animals contributes to the [antibiotic resistance] problem . . . the agricultural community must accept part of the responsibility."
Scientists have known almost from the moment penicillin was discovered in 1928 that the more an antibiotic is used, the more quickly it becomes useless. Humans and bacteria are locked in a biological arms race: We find a drug; the germs develop resistance; we come up with a newer, more deadly weapon. Sometimes all that's needed is a minor variation on an existing drug. "All antibiotics have a limited window of utility before the bugs catch on," says J. Glenn Morris, an infectious disease specialist at the University of Maryland. "With enough time, bacteria will develop resistance to everything."
That's why doctors are always looking for new drugs--and so are farmers and veterinarians. In 1986, the FDA approved the first of a powerful new class of antibiotics for humans with the tongue-twisting name of fluoroquinolones, capable of replacing old-line antibiotics that could no longer beat the bugs. Only nine years later, in 1995, the FDA gave the go-ahead for veterinarians to begin dosing sick chickens with fluoroquinolones for the same reason: The old drugs no longer worked.
More than a third of the antibiotics sold in the United States--about 18 million pounds a year--wind up on the farm. They are used for three reasons: to treat sick animals; to prevent others housed in confined barns or coops from getting sick, too; and to make the animals grow faster. In terms of volume, most antibiotics are used for the first two reasons. Only 6.1 percent of the drugs goes toward growth promotion.
But in terms of the number of animals affected, the role of growth promotion is huge. That is because growers give antibiotics, in low but daily doses, to entire herds or flocks. Crawford, who is now director of the Georgetown University Center for Food and Nutrition Policy, estimates that 75 percent of the 92 million pigs in this country routinely chow down on feed laced with antibiotics. So do about 6 percent of cattle, 25 percent of chickens and half the turkeys.
With every dose, animals are turned into walking petri dishes, breeding strains of antibiotic-resistant bacteria. As Crawford puts it, "Low doses don't kill off bacteria--they just make them mad." How could the resistant bacteria get from animals to people? The most obvious route would be through raw or undercooked meat. But the idea that a person's infection is resistant because he or she ate an animal that had been fed antibiotics is a lot harder to prove than you might think.
That's why studies like one published last year in the New England Journal of Medicine have shifted the balance of the debate. Public health researchers from the state of Minnesota and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control reported on bacterial cultures taken over several years from Minnesota residents infected with the bacterium Campylobacter jejuni. Campylobacter lives happily in the guts of animals without a peep. But it wreaks havoc in human beings, causing an estimated 2 million to 8 million cases of gastroenteritis in the United States each year.
Ordinarily, a bout of food poisoning causes little more than diarrhea or vomiting, and maybe a day or two away from work. Antibiotics are needed only if the infection persists or becomes "invasive"--meaning it has moved into the bloodstream. That's when the effectiveness of an antibiotic can mean the difference between life and death. In 1992, the Journal article said, only 1.3 percent of the Minnesota cases were caused by strains of Campylobacter that were resistant to fluoroquinolones. By 1998, the number had risen to 10.2 percent. That's a pretty steep rise, and the researchers determined it was almost certainly because of antibiotic use on farms.
Only a small fraction of the patients had ever taken fluoroquinolones themselves; and the genetic strain of resistant bacteria found in a significant number of the samples matched the genetic strain found on a variety of chicken products purchased at local grocery stores. Out of 91 chicken products, 80 were contaminated with Campylobacter. Twenty percent of those bacteria were resistant to ciprofloxacin, a fluoroquinolone that is needed to treat invasive gastroenteritis in humans.
....Then there's DT104, a particularly nasty strain of salmonella that is rampant in Europe and has begun to show up in the United States. DT104 can blow off several antibiotics, and it is twice as likely to land you in the hospital as less virulent strains. The National Chicken Council does not appear to think any of this is a problem. After the Minnesota paper came out, the council issued a press release noting that "properly handled and cooked chicken product would be free of Campylobacter." Fair enough. But by now, most Americans have heard that they are supposed to cook meat until it's charred. ....Whatever the reasons, there are 78 million cases of food-borne illness in this country every year, 5,000 of which are fatal.
Besides, undercooked meat is not the only route bacteria can take from farm to human. Last month, the New England Journal of Medicine reported the case of a 12-year-old boy who came down with a nasty case of salmonella that was resistant to no fewer than 13 antimicrobial agents. ...."We are all in one great big gene pool," says the University of Maryland's Morris. "From the point of view of bacteria, you can't say the hospital, the farm and the community are separate places."....
There are bacteria that can resist practically every antibiotic, and the drug companies have very few new ones ready for market. There are only so many ways you can attack bacteria, since they are simple organisms with few moving parts. In the past five years, the FDA has approved exactly two really new antibiotics (a handful of others were approved, but they were variations on existing drugs). One of them, Synercid, at first seemed to be something of a wonder drug--it can treat strains of bacteria that are resistant to vancomycin, one of the most powerful antibiotics now in use.
But Synercid's days may already be numbered because a closely related drug has been used on animals since 1974. Bugs that are resistant to that antibiotic, it turns out, are also resistant to Synercid. ...The highest rates of resistant bacteria are found in middle-class suburbanites... But while patients and doctors can learn not to abuse antibiotics, consumers don't have much choice about how their meat is raised.
Where has the FDA been in all this? When it lost the fight against antibiotics in feed in 1980, Congress wrote language into an appropriations bill threatening to suspend the agency's funding if it persisted in its attempts to limit the agricultural use of antibiotics. Now, the FDA is ready to try again, and this time there's reason to hope it might just pull it off. The agency has the backing of the CDC and the World Health Organization; last month [i.e., April, 2000] the General Accounting Office released a study of antibiotic use in agriculture recommending that the FDA and other federal agencies work together to come up with a sensible plan.
The FDA has already done that. What it proposes is a ranking of new and existing antibiotics according to their importance to human health. Drugs like the fluoroquinolones and Synercid would be in the most protected class, restricted to human use. Other drugs could be given to sick animals or to prevent disease among animals, but not put into feed for growth promotion. The third class of drugs, which have little value to human medicine, such as the topical ointment Bacitracin, could be widely available to farmers.
The agency is moving very slowly, trying to forge a consensus between public health officials on the one hand and industry on the other. Already drug companies are getting the message. "We're not seeing many companies coming in with applications for [low-dose antibiotics] use any more," says Stephen F. Sundlof, director of the FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine. "I think they realize the regulatory hurdles are going to be higher because they are exposing a lot more animals to the drug." Others who have gone through the antibiotic wars are not so sure. "The industry is very powerful," says Abigail Salyers, a microbiologist at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. "Unless they go along to some extent, the fight could be ugly." But not nearly as ugly as the possibility that researchers like Crawford fear most--the possibility that in the fight between bacteria and antibiotics, the bugs will one day get the upper hand.
Shannon Brownlee is a freelance writer specializing in health and science.
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32) TRUER WORDS:
I'm saying that "Those who love sausage or the law shouldn't watch
either one being made" could be extended to [poultry] breeding, as well.
----- Robert Plamondon
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31) ORGANIC OR ... ?
Thu, 1 Feb 2001
"Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com
My beef about the organic movement is that it started out as a producer
movement centered around healthy, productive soil, and somewhere along the
way
it seems to have mutated into a consumer movement centered around the fear
of
chemicals.
I'm an adherent of the first school of thought. If you focus on healthy,
productive soil, you're not going to have much use for chemicals.
Pesticides,
herbicides, and chemical fertilizers tend to kill off earthworms and soil
microbes, which are the organisms you rely upon to keep your farm
productive.
So this whole class of chemicals strikes you as being irrelevant, and you
rarely find a circumstance where using them makes any sense at all.
The thing that's wrong with conventional agriculture isn't what it does to
the
FOOD, it's what it does to the LAND. Not much of the chemicals end up in the
food to trouble the consumer. It stays on the land, poisoning the
environment -- and the farmers.
Somewhere I read a blurb on the advantages of sustainable agriculture. A
farmer was quoted as saying, "A couple of years after switching to
sustainable
methods, the songbirds came back to my farm." His chemical use had killed
countless songbirds and other creatures, but he probably doesn't deserve
credit for killing a single consumer. The land is taking most of the
punishment.
I met a worker at a local testing lab at a Farmer's Market. She told me that
they rarely detect pesticide residues in any food samples.
The food that comes from conventional agriculture, though far from tasty and
not as nutritious as it ought to be, isn't bad when you consider the price.
Food is amazingly cheap these days. The average consumer only spends 10% of
his income on food, and that includes processed and convenience foods. In
1950
it was something like 25% of income, and apparently it was a whopping 50% of
income in the 1920s. Not surprisingly, nutritional deficiencies were common
in
the 1920s, stunting or crippling millions of children.
When selling eggs at the farmers' market, I'm continually meeting consumers
whose beliefs about poultry consist largely of someone's self-serving lies.
I'm constantly being asked about hormones. The only hormone that was ever
used
to any great extent in poultry (DES) was banned in the U.S. the year I was
born. They look at misleading pictures on other people's egg cartons and are
convinced that the eggs come from free-range hens, when in fact they are
kept
in close confinement. They're convinced that hens are kept under bright,
24-hour light and lay eggs until they die of exhaustion.
People are making money on these lies. They're pushing their slick
magazines,
soliciting contributions for their animal-welfare organizations, or selling
their crappy confinement eggs on the basis of these lies. It really, REALLY
bugs me. And they're focusing the attention of the consumer on a total
fantasy
rather than on the miserable state of the land.
I'm a lot more concerned about the land than I am about, say, food safety,
which I consider to be pretty good, considering. My current theory is that
the
ordinary feed ingredients available on the market are more than adequate as
chicken feed, provided that the chickens also have access to pasture.
Pasture
seems to be the critical ingredient. Our broilers seem to be tastier when
raised on lush spring pasture than dry summer pasture, for instance.
On the topic of, "Where does quality come from?" it certainly seems that
pasture quality is more important to the taste of broilers and eggs than
details of the mixed ration. We use very ordinary feed that probably isn't
any
better than what Foster Farms or Willamette Egg use, but our broilers and
eggs
taste far better than theirs. We have customers who have switched from
certified-organic confinement-chicken eggs who insist that our eggs are the
best they've ever tasted. So I guess that certified-organic feed doesn't
guarantee good flavor. We've had similar comments about the broilers,
including one gourmet customer who compared them favorably to anything he'd
encountered in a gastronomic tour of France. This strikes me as evidence
that
it's not the contents of the feed sack that's the critical element, but
pasture quality. To my way of thinking, this is great news, since it helps
keep me focused the land.
If I were more politically inclined, I suppose I'd try to buy only grains
from
politically correct growers, but the fact is that I believe in the
inevitability of sustainable agriculture. I believe that it can produce
grain
just as cheaply as conventional agriculture -- in the long term, more
cheaply.
It will take cheap sustainable grain to pound the stake into the heart of
chemical agriculture. Since I don't believe that certified organic grain
will
make my eggs taste any better, and I don't think my customers will be eager
to
pay for the extra time and expense it would entail, I don't buy it.
-- Robert
36475 Norton Creek Rd, Blodgett OR 97326
Voice: (541) 453-5841 * Fax: (541) 453-4139
Free-range poultry site: http://www.plamondon.com
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31) PASTURED POULTRY AUTHOR RE-EXAMINES SYSTEM
[See Andy's wonderful post, "Pastured Poultry FAQ" in our Pastured Poultry section.]
Wed, 23 Feb 2000
"Andy Lee & Pat Foreman" Goodearth at Rockbridge.net
Hello fellow list members,
After re-reading the FAQ I've decided I can no longer support pasture
poultry as being environmentally sensitive, economically viable or socially
just, at least not in the way it is being practiced now.
If we are using twice as much land to grow grain, that's not ecologically
defensible.
If we are putting our chickens in minimal shelter during all kinds of
weather, that's not humane.
If we are working our butts off to make this sort of system work, then
that's not sustainable.
In my book CHICKEN TRACTOR, I repeated the "30% feed savings on pasture"
myth. I regret that, and I will print a retraction in the next issue.
This coming season I will do my own research, on my own farm, so that I know
what I am talking about and can speak the truth in the future. I know it is
possible to design a pasture-based poultry system that is more sustainable
that what I am doing now. If any of you have ideas to share please let me
know.
Thanks,
Andy Lee
31b) Response from PasturePoultry at Onelist.com listmember
Wed, 23 Feb 2000
Oak Moon Farm knorek at internet1.net
Hi Andy,
Quite a bombshell! I must admit having my enthusiasm temporarily dampened, but
after some serious pondering, I must respectfully disagree on your points:
> If we are using twice as much land to grow grain, that's not ecologically
> defensible.
I assume your are saying that for one acre of grain grown, one acre of pasture
is required to run it through chickens (when the grain is used for poultry
feed). I do not know enough to argue this point. I will assume that it is
correct, for the sake of this discussion. In absolute terms, it may not be a
defensible practice. However, relatively speaking, it is infinitely better
(environmentally-wise) to raise poultry on pasture than in confinement. The
system may need to be tweaked to make it a absolute statement, but we are on our
way.
> If we are putting our chickens in minimal shelter during all kinds of
> weather, that's not humane.
>
Chickens only require minimal shelter. Granted, we suffer from routine extremes
in weather, and the chickens suffer also. However, a pasture raised chicken
(with minimal shelter) is still in a more humane environment than its
confinement cousins.
> If we are working our butts off to make this sort of system work, then
> that's not sustainable.
>
I know of no business where one can succeed without working one's butt off.
This includes farming! Working one's self to the point of exhaustion, family
and marital stress, etc., is another matter. It is very easy to design a
pastured poultry model that leads to the latter. Our challenge is to focus on
optimizing the return for working our butts off, but only after we have thought
the process through...over and over again. And a continuing challenge is to
modify the process after learning from our mistakes (and the mistakes of
others).
Andy, the points that you make are valid, in both absolute terms and relative
terms. However, they must be taken in the following context...pastured poultry
systems, for their shortcomings, are still infinitely better than the industrial
confinement model currently being foisted on the environment and the consumer!!!
Do we need to do better? YES!
Can we do better? YES!
Should we give up? NO!!!!!!
Wow, and I thought that this was going to be a routine day! Thank you, Andy,
for this opportunity for introspection.
Peace,
Jack
************************
30) MILLET INSTEAD OF CORN
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000
From: Jeff Mattocks - jeff at fertrell.com
[NOTE: See Jeff in our Online Experts section]
Milo, Millet, and Sorghum grains are a very good feed for laying hens (only). These grains tend to be high in tannins which are Polyphenols. The bottom line is that these tannins can and will decrease body weight gains in young developing poultry. I would recommend not to exceed 30% of the prepared grain mix with these types of grains.
Developing Poultry
None of these grains should be used for developing poultry unless protein adjustments are made. They should not be used in conjunction with other small grains in the same mix.
If you have additional question please feel free to ask. You may also contact at:
The Fertrell Co.
Ph: 800-347-1566
Jeff Mattocks
************************
29) COSTS OF FEED FOR 150 CHICKS IN WASHINGTON STATE
Michaele Blakely mjb at premier1.net
Feb. 18, 2000
This is a flock started in August and pretty dry.
> 150 chicks 97.00
> 250 lbs. broiler starter 53.95
> 900 lbs. broiler grower 190.26
> 500 lbs. broiler finisher 98.50
> processing at 16 per hr. at $20.00/hr 156.20
> packing at 32 per hr. at $20.00/hr 78.00
Total 673.91
125 birds at 5.5lb at 2.35 lbs 928.13
> These birds were on pasture, but allowed free-range during the last 3
weeks to forage. I have larger and healthier flocks when on cover crops, a
mixture of oats, legumes, and vetch seems to be preferred by the birds,
and Dutch clover is next.
So food conversion is 1lb meat to 2.6lb feed. It is organic feed. Nothing
else is added.
************************
28) INTESTINAL CONDITIONS, PARASITES, PROBIOTICS, AND TOXINS
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000
From: "Donna Fezler" gcr at rhealiving.com
[NOTE: See Donna in our Online Experts]
Probiotics introduce the good bacteria and may be used without worry of
infection. I don't know of any good studies but I do use it, especially in
stress conditions which will precede a parasite infestation I still would
wash my hands because any bacteria can be a problem in the wrong place.
I have lots of room, feed garlic (it is also high in selenium which is an
immune booster and a natural antibacterial and antiviral), and use DE. [Diatomaceous Earth] The
DE definitely controls flies. We know the difference in less than a week.
Ivermectin has been shown to be toxic to rheas and ostriches so I don't have
that choice and the chickens eat what the rheas eat. I strongly believe
that the bugs are opportunists looking for a free lunch. Hexane extracted
soy meal appears (no double blind study) to cause the breakdown of the baby
rheas' intestinal wall which provides the free fatty acids the protozoan
need. I worked for 3 years on that problem before I realized I had to stop
treating the parasite and start boosting the immune system.
The toxin detoxification competes with the rebuilding mechanism for the
available sulfur. If there isn't enough the body can't rebuild fast enough
and the area under assault (in this case the intestinal wall) breaks down.
Once that happens the cell debris itself becomes a toxin and something has
to clean it up. These is where the parasites thrive. Keep the gut intact
with a stress-free environment, essential fatty acids, and ample
supplementation and/or fresh wholesome food and the parasites won't be able
to compete with the good flora.
************************
27) FEEDING STORE-BOUGHT EGGS TO BIRDS CAUSES PROBLEMS---FREE RANGE EGGS DON'T
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000
From: "Donna Fezler" gcr at rhealiving.com
These birds are actually for an experiment comparing free range eggs and
grocery store eggs as food. I already know that in baby rheas we get turned
legs and other leg problems when I use grocery store eggs. This will be a
controlled study, and I wanted to use half Cornish cross because of all its
inherent growth problems and also a hardier chicken. I still want something
worth eating at the end of the study.
************************
26) FEED AND MOVEABLE PEN DETAILS IN PASTURED POULTRY
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com
RE: Day Range> Pasture pens means the birds live in a small (typically> 10x12-foot) pen that> is moved to a fresh spot each day or twice a day. The advantages are the> 100% coverage of ground for graze and manure spreading, the relatively low> cost per pen, the almost 100% protection from predators, and the lack of> need for perimeter fencing of any kind. The detriments are the amount of> labor required to carry water and feed to the birds once or twice, or even> three times daily, and the moving of the pen. The pens are bulky,> birds get> crushed, backs get thrown out, tempers get frayed, and the older> we get, or > the steeper our land, the less we like moving those darn pens so> often.
We don't have any of these problems. Some points:
1. A 10x12 pen is too large. An 8x8 pen is easier to move, can be built outof cheaper materials, and all the lumber can be put in a full-sized pickupwith the tailgate up.
2. The pens are hard to move and crush birds because they're designed wrong.The front and back walls should be ON TOP OF the skids, not dragging on theground. As soon as the back wall is off the ground, the pens become easy tomove. As soon as the back wall is off the ground, the birds no longer getcrushed. to keep them from popping out, extending the chicken wire down toground level works, but a better plan is to hem a chain into a plastic tarpand use it as a weighted curtain across the gap. You could convert existingchicken tractors by nailing a two-by-four at the bottom of two of the sidesto create skids, and then doing something to keep the birds from poppingout. This would raise the front and back by only 1 1/2", which really isn'tenough (to my way of thinking), but it would convince you.
3. Hills are good. It's easier to move pens downhill than up. We start atthe top with chicks and move the pen down the hill by hand with theassistance of gravity. When the pens are empty, we pull them uphill by tractor. But our pens are easy enough to move that there's no problemmoving them uphill if we get to the bottom before the birds are ready toprocess.4. Carrying water is too time-consuming. It almost always can be avoided.1/4" O.D. drip tubing is cheap and very strong. We have a stock tank at thetop of our hill that we fill from a tank in our pickup truck once a week.We have a feeder system of 1/2" poly tubing going to garden hose or driptubing. Not having a water bucket on the house makes the house easier tomove, and the birds are healthier now that they never run out of water. Ifthere's always water, they never fight over it. Nobody should carry wateraround in buckets. If you don't have a convenient hill, all you need is aplatform elevated to a height a couple of feet greater than that of achicken tractor -- or a pump.
And,> if you are growing any significant number of birds you will need a lot of> these pens, so suddenly the cost adds up to quite a bit. Also, birds get> smothered, get wet and chilled and die, or die of heat stress, and they> often die from mechanical injury during pen moves. I can always tell the> carcass of a pen raised broiler by the scratches on its back or the breast> blister.My impression is that pastured poultry growers often use grossly inadequatefeeder space and this almost forces them to skimp on feed. The standard inindustry (which uses expensive automatic feeders and would skimp on them ifthey could) is three inches of feeder space per bird up to seven weeks, andfour inches thereafter. Given a trough that the birds can use both sidesof, that's eight birds per foot to seven weeks and six birds per footafterwards. A 90-bird house should have three to four four-foot troughs,yet I keep hearing of people trying to get by with only one!
The other issue is the amount of feed. If you see an empty trough, youdon't know whether you underfed the birds by one grain or ten pounds.Empty troughs are bad news. You can keep the birds grossly underfed andthey will look healthy, but only the ones at the top of the pecking orderwill grow at a normal rate. The rest will be runts. And of course underfeeding leads to fighting at the feed trough. We never see scratches when processing our birds. We've only seen one carcass bruised by tractordamage (from our tractor with the too-low skids), and three or four breastblisters. In my opinion, if one addresses these problems, day ranging has noadvantages for broiler growers. Your big gains were in the hose-fed watererand the long feeder. I don't think the yard buys you anything at all.
-- Robert--Robert Plamondon * High-Tech Technical Writing36475 Norton Creek Road * Blodgett OR 97326541-453-5841 * Fax: 541-453-4139mailto:robert at xxxxxxxxx.xxx * http://www.pioneer.net/~robertp
************************
From: "Michaele Blakely" mjb at premier1.net, Feb.8
25) POULTRY-FEED COVER CROPS FOR SMALL PLOTS
I've also experimented with various mixes, some work well, others don't. I
view the fields in beds rather than acres, and since I don't use a tractor,
large root mass is a difficult one. I tried rye and it was tough. Two
combinations I've found very successful have been oats, field peas, and
vetch planted in late fall. It pretty much sits but begins growth about
now, and is ready for birds to be out on it in March. We can then till and
plant a few weeks later. The birds love the oats, and vetch, leave the peas
alone. I figure the peas are going for the soil only, that's okay.
The other combo is to use white clover under broccoli. I discovered quite
by accident that in my fields at least the cabbage butterfly is confused
when white clover is planted under brassicas. (great habitats for slugs
however, out come the ducks, they don't like broccoli). Once the broccoli
is done the stalks are cut and the birds start munching. Clover is
expensive, but in small areas up to 1000 sq feet, and I think this system
works well.
Michaele
Growing Things
Carnation WA
************************
24) NUTRITIONISTS AND FEED MILLS
From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com, Feb.8
A lot of the nutritional information is still coming from the poultry
specialists at the land-grant colleges, so the place to start is to call
your local extension service and find out who that person is. In about six
far-western States, it's Jim Hermes at Oregon State University.
The way the feed mills do it, poultry nutrition is pretty easy. The
simplest method is to take corn, soybean oil meal, feed-grade limestone,
feed-grade rock phosphate, a packet of commercial vitamin/mineral premix, a
packet of refined methionine to make up for the amino acid deficiencies of
the corn, mix, and voila! chicken feed. For medicated feed, you toss in the
packet of medication.
The actual mixing procedure is a little more complicated than this, but the
recipe isn't. You can make it more exciting by adding grains other than
corn and using byproducts. There's software that you can use to dial in the
prices of every available feedstuff and get a least-cost mix. The software
remembers all the rules, such as poultry not liking rye and turning up their
noses if you put in more than a couple of percent of rye in the mix, or
consumers not liking fishy tastes in their poultry products, so you
shouldn't put in more than two or three percent of fish meal.
I don't know if this software is available for free (it probably is, because
it's the sort of thing the universities would crank out).
I know that a lot of people point fingers at commercial feed, but I don't
understand what the big deal is. Salatin claims that vitamin/mineral
premixes are a bad thing, but he never says why. I eat vitamin/mineral
premixes myself (called a "multivitamin with mineral supplement pill") on
the supposition that they're good for me.
Did y'all get your APPPA GRIT in the mail? The nutritional analysis of the
pastured poultry was fascinating, and in most respects the results were even
better than I expected. But I was concerned that the iron and calcium
levels in the carcasses were low. Maybe they're low in the diet?
-- Robert
************************
23) CSA'S BECOMING POPULAR WAY OF BUYING FARM POULTRY
From Brian Moyer, Feb.8,
Email: BrianM22 at aol.com
We have thus far only done this as a trial last fall with one of the CSA's.
Here's what we did, the farmer at the CSA put up a list to sign up for
chicken and eggs to be delivered the first week of the month. Then, he called
me at the end of the month and gave me the number of chickens and eggs to
bring. When I delivered them, he payed me my money and collected his from his
subscribers. It seemed to work pretty well so we will doing that this year.
This year will be the true test because we only did it for one month because
it was the end of the season when we got this idea.
I think we have a couple things going for us.
1) I get my money when I
deliver so there is an incentive for the CSA farmer to sell the chickens and
eggs or he is stuck with them.
2) both CSA's hold "field days" in the spring
so subscribers and interested households can come to the farm to check it
out. They have invited me to come with a demonstration pen to explain how we
raise our chickens and to answer any questions the shareholders might have.
3) CSA's and pastured poultry
are becoming more and more popular here in the Northeast and this might be a
slight advantage over your part of the country but that is just a guess.
Brian Moyer
************************
22) "WIVES TALES" OR "WISE TALES"?
From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com, Feb.8
> From: "Pamela Marshall" caiplichhorses at hotmail.com
>
> Interesting! I just got 2 old books on raising turkeys (pub 1898
> and 1922),
> both recommended feeding charcoal - one says "for digestive troubles" -
> neither say anything about using it for worms. The "remedies" that they
> suggest for worms are scarey - including kerosene, tobacco, and alum -
> although another "good" suggestion is to feed garlic and onions
> (Wonder if the birds come pre-flavored after this diet????!!)
Garlic and onions are both supposed to give an unpleasant taste to meat and
eggs.
> Both also suggest using black pepper (one also suggests red pepper and
> ginger) for respiratory ailments - the suggestion os to "season" the feed
> with pepper once or twice a week, esp in damp weather. Anyone know about
> this??
This is pure snake oil. It's based on the old theory of
"counter-irritants," which pretty much concluded that adding insult to
injury speeds the healing process. Thus, if chickens aren't laying, we'll
add condiments to their food that, in people, cause a burning sensation both
going in and coming out, hoping to stimulate the chickens' behinds. For
respiratory problems, we'll give them things that make them sneeze and
wheeze.
The charcoal is a different kind of idiocy, based on the idea that illness
is caused by "bad air," and that charcoal is known to absorb gases. (Also,
a lot of people believed that all ills were caused by digestive upset, and
that laxatives or other digestive hocus-pocus were miracle cures, so you get
two old wives' tales for the price of one.) A lot of people kept using
charcoal even after it was proven ineffective because there didn't seem to
be a downside, and their belief comforted them. Then people discovered
vitamins and everybody instantly abandoned charcoal because they were afraid
that it would absorb vitamins and cause deficiency diseases.
If you read enough of the old stuff you start seeing the pattern of health
fads. The trend towards open-front houses happened at the same time as the
open-air and sleeping-porch movement for human houses, which itself was a
way of trying to avoid tuberculosis. (But it turned out that open-front
houses were a good idea.)
Tobacco and kerosene are too toxic to the birds to be really practical.
Garlic, onions, and vinegar probably won't hurt the birds (unless you put
vinegar in galvanized waterers, which will give them zinc poisoning.) Does
it work? Who knows? Who cares? Folk practices survive because people
would rather believe their aged neighbor with the flock of sickly chickens
than all the experts in the world.
-- Robert
************************
21) PASTURED POULTRY COVER CROPS, IN DETAIL
From: Aaron Silverman cgrowers at pond.net
Creative Growers, Noti, Oregon
Feb 7
We raise about 2,000 pastured broilers, and 3 acres of mixed produce &
cut flowers. Chickens are run on an acre of the market area from May
through the middle of June, then moved to pasture for the rest of the
season. The section the birds are run on is seeded with a cover crop
tailored for grazing.
We have experimented with several mixes, including straight white clover,
oats/annual rye/field peas, oats/cereal rye/annual rye, and a mix of all
the above. Cover crops must be chosen that are palatable to the birds,
and can withstand (or even enhanced by) mowing. Pure clover had the best
results for the chickens, requiring no mowing and producing lots of
succulent growth. However, for a short-season cover crop, clover is just
too expensive at $80-$90 per 50lb bag. Peas & oats had great growth, and
performed well in the beginning of the season, but was difficult to keep
at grazing height. We thought the birds would eat the succulent peas, but
merely tromped on them instead.
We've now settled on mixes of grains & annual rye, for several reasons.
This type of mix can be either grazed by other animals early in the
spring to maintain grazing height, or mowed. Either treatment may
stimulate the grains to "tiller"out, enhancing root growth & additional
leaf growth. Cereal rye has some alleleopathic effects on weed seeds,
diminishing their ability to germinate. This type of mix may also be
established much later in the season, an important aspect in a climate
that often sees little precipitation during the growing season until well
into October when light levels are much diminished.
After the birds are phased onto the pasture, the ground is mowed and
disked. A portion of the section may be planted with winter
squash/pumpkins with little additional fertility (depending on overall
fertility levels). The remaining ground is cultivated through July &
early August, treating it as a bare fallow. Beds are formed and
overwintering coles (b-sprouts, kale, etc) and garlic are planted in the
remaining area. Recent research has suggested that microbial activity is
enhanced with cover crops allowed to go to a slightly more carbonaceous
phase than normally grown. A small section of chicken ground is allowed
to go to seed after the birds are removed each year, disked and rolled
later in the fall than the fallowed ground. This has been sufficient to
reseed the strip, often with a lusher and thicker stand than the rest of
the field. As we bring more ground into cultivation, a larger section may
be allowed to reseed each year.
Although the chickens do provide nitrogen, phosphorus, & calcium, they
are only a part of our overall fertility program. Birds are generally
rotated to sections that have seen multiple croppings for the past 2
years (every section sees birds a minimum of once every 3 years).
Aaron
Creative Growers
Aaron Silverman
88741 Torrence Rd.
Noti, Or. 97461
Quality Produce & Pastured Poultry
************************
20) KILL MITES: FOOT TRAYS APPLY D.E. TO CHIX' FEET
From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com
Feb. 7:
Another clean-egg trick was devised by the University of Washington way back
when. They replaced the perches on the nest boxes with shallow trays, a few
inches wide, that they filled with powdered gypsum. This would coat the
hens' feet and keep the mud from wiping off onto the eggs. I've made
half-hearted experiments with this, and it seems to work. Diatomaceous
earth would probably work just as well as powdered gypsum, and kill mites at
the same time.
************************
19) CHICKEN "POOP PATROL" IN STABLES KEEPS PARASITES WAY DOWN
From: "Pamela Marshall" caiplichhorses at hotmail.com
Out in the
pastures ... they work together well - chickens eat the broad leaved
thinks that horses sometimes aviod, eat the bugs, spread the manure to where
the parasites are killed by the sun rays, and eat the grains that the horses
did't digest.
Our hens are in the portable house that they summered in - around November,
we moved the house into the pasture where my two weanling foals are - it is
enclosed with diamond mesh fencing which will keep most critters at bay and
keeps the hens in. The house is at one end, with a 2 strand electric tape
sectioning off their end from the foals so they can have a "safe" area. The
foals ignore them mostly though, and the chickens happily race to the run-in
shed in the mornings to see what goodies the foals have left for them. Also
have 2 pens of turkeys (trio of slates and a bourbon red tom) sectioned off
there too with hog panels to keep them seperate. This is a bit hodge podge
this year, as we are still fencing (Not right now though - 14" of snow on
the ground!), barn building, and constructing pens - next year I hope to
have each "group" of chickens or turkeys in seperate paddocks with the
horses in the winter...they make excellent "poop patrollers" which keeps the
parasite load of the horses way down...you could do this with any livestock
as long as the exterior fence was chicken/predator proof...
Pam
Seldom Seen Farm in Amenia, NY
My mind is like lightning - one brilliant flash and it's gone!
************************
18) FREE RANGE TECHNIQUES AT KINTALINE FARM PLANT AND POULTRY CENTRE
Oban, Argyll, Scotland
http://www.poultryscotland.co.uk/hens/freerangeeggs.html
Our birds range over permanent pasture. We move the houses regularly to keep them on fresh grazing all the time.
First thing in the morning they are let out of the houses - they spend a few hours grazing and chasing bugs. Gradually they go back inside to lay and top up with layers meal which is available ad lib. Over the middle of the day they carry on laying, dust bathing, exploring the fields and on good days sunbathing.
In the middle of the afternoon we feed a wheat feed outside. This allows us to encourage them to investigate certain areas of their surroundings and is a valuable feed supplement. We also collect eggs, top up feed and check all the hens. In the height of the laying season and on hot days we will have collected in the morning as well.
************************
17) SCRATCH GRAINS NEED SUPPLEMENTING WITH OTHER FEEDS
Jan. 25, 2000
"...wheat is only a scratch for productive hens and youngstockfor layers and youngstock to be fed properly they need the correct balancedfeedsI know a few 'organic' backyarders only feed wheat but that would not givehigh production, and free range eggs are a marginal enough product withoutgetting a decent yield. Young hens would 'do' but not well.So - any organic producers out therefor once - PLEASE advertise even if it is privately to one of us and we willpass it on.
Jill http://www.poultryscotland.co.uk
************************
16) UPSTARTS
Feb. 5, 2000
** A farmer goes out one day and buys a brand new stud rooster to copulate
with his chickens. The farmer puts the rooster straight in the pen so he
can get down to business. The young rooster walks over to the old rooster and says
"OK, old fellow, time to retire."
The old rooster says, "You can't handle all these chickens....look at
what it did to me!"
The young rooster replies, "Now, don't give me a hassle about this.
Time for the old to step aside and the young to take over, so take a hike."
The old rooster says, "Aw, c'mon.....just let me have the two old hens
over in the corner. I won't bother you,"
The young rooster says, "Scram! Beat it! You're washed up! I'm taking
over!"
So, the old rooster thinks for a minute and then says to the young
rooster, "I'll tell you what, young fellow, I'll have a race with you
around
the farmhouse. Whoever wins the race gets domain of the chicken oop. And if I'm so feeble, why not
give me a little head start?
The young rooster says, "Sure, why not, you know I'll still beat you,"
They line up in back of the farmhouse, get a chicken to cluck "Go!"
and
the old rooster takes off running. About 15 seconds later the young rooster
takes off after him. They round the front of the farmhouse and the young
rooster is only about 5 inches behind the old rooster and gaining fast.
The farmer, sitting on the porch, looks up, sees what's going on,
grabs
his shotgun and BOOM!, he blows the young rooster to KFC heaven.
He shakes his head gloomily and says
"***** of a ******* ...third gay rooster I bought this week!"
Thanks to Topaz for this!
************************
15) AMERICAN PASTURED POULTRY PRODUCERS MAGAZINE
The next issue of APPPA Grit is going in the mail tomorrow. Its a 20-page
issue, highlights include results of a SARE project that looked at
nutritional analysis of pastured poultry, highlights of the presentations at
the annual meeting, minutes from the annual meeting, and the last two
conference calls of the board of directors. There's also articles on poultry
labeling, brooder management, pp expansion in the new millennium and many
other tidbits of information! A subscription to APPPA is $20.
Diane --- American Pastured Poultry Producers Assn
5207 70th St, Chippewa Falls WI 54729
715 - 723-2293
grit at agrippa.org
************************
14) NEW WORMERIES VIS-A-VIS CHICKENS WEBSITE
Jan. 15, 2000
I've uploaded a text file to the upload/download area of our website
http://metalab.unc.edu/permaculture-online/uploads/docs.
It's called wormeries.txt and contains info that I put together from various
e-mail / ng postings. Some of the info is 'strictly' wormery stuff, other
relates to chickens & wormeries.
Hope it is of some use.
I've put in a link at http://metalab.unc.edu/permaculture-online/animland.html
to Kim's excellent chicken website.
Cheers,
Ute
************************
13) SALATIN LAYER RATION, ETC. Jan 28, 2000
From: mayorsson1 at hotmail.com
Hello Folks, Here's a Joel Salatin layer ration from '98, for 1 ton of feed.
Roasted soy beans 617#
Ground corn 596#
Cracked corn 398#
Crimped oats 219#
Feed grade limestone 99#
Nutri-balancer 60#
Kelp meal 11#
Here in NC I don't have access to roasted soybeans, so I will substitute soybean meal, a soybean oil and alfalfa meal. My wheat prize will replace the crimped oats, so there is the possibility of their lower protein content being offset by the inclusion of alfalfa meal. I had thought of using a probiotic and possibly some DE. Another producer topdressed their layer ration with aragonite for available calcium.
In the past I have used a broiler ration, which uses Sea-Lac fish meal to boost protein, and the layers ate and produced well.
I say that "prize wheat makes a tasty treat, and that the price can't be beat!" Any new rhymes or feed recipes anyone? Edward.
************************
12) DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FOR DE-WORMING CHICKENS
From: "Farm Dad" Jan 26, 2000 farmdad at hotmail.com
Diatomacious earth is THE natural remedy of choice for worming. Why use
harsh drugs on your birds when DE is quite effective and has been used
successfully for many years by organic folks.
Last spring I found some worms in the feces of a recently purchased hen. I
used DE in the feed (at 0.5% rate) for a few days. I found no other worms
and the eggs increased in size markedly.
Food grade DE is the only type that should be used. NEVER use DE ment for
swimming pool filters. It is a different size.
I know of several sources of DE in different parts of the US. I will have
to check my file at home - if anyone is interested.
********************
11) THE OLD NAVY CHIEF AND THE PARROT
From: Bentoak398 at aol.com, Jan. 26, 2000
The old Navy Chief finally retired and got that chicken ranch he always
wanted. He took with him
his life-long pet parrot.
First morning at 0430, the parrot squawked loudly and said, "Reveille,
Reveille. Up all hands.
Heave out and trice up. The smoking lamp is lighted, now Reveille." The old
chief told the parrot,
"We are no longer in the Navy. Go back to sleep."
The next morning, the parrot did the same thing. Chief told the parrot, "If
you keep this up, I'll
put your ass out in the chicken pen." Again the parrot did it, and true to
his word, the Chief put
the parrot in the chicken pen.
About 0630 the morning after that, the Chief was awakened by one heck of a
ruckus in the chicken
pen. He went out to see what was the matter.
The parrot had about 40 white chickens at attention in formation, and on the
ground lay 3 bruised
and beaten brown chickens.
The parrot was saying, "By God, when I say fall out in dress whites, I don't
mean Khakis!"
********************
From: "Argall Family" Dec. 21, 1999
10) TO COMPOST OR NOT TO COMPOST (CHICKEN MANURES IN PASTURED
POULTRY)
I wrote:
>
> Just to make the point that chicken manures should be composted
> to be really
> healthy for plants. The combination of droppings with straw or other wood
> litter is valuable, indeed essential, because it assists in
> getting a better carbon-nitrogen ratio.
Robert then wrote:
"This doesn't make any sense to me, especially not on permanent pasture.
Pasture plants can metabolize the more available nitrogen compounds
directly, and many of them can probably do so through foliar feeding,
grabbing nutrients through their leaves before the manure actually works its
way down into contact with the soil. I don't see why it's better for manure
to be predigested through composting, rather than hitting the ground
straight from the chicken's butt..."
Indeed, plants can take up available inorganic nutrients in solution,
otherwise we would not have a chemical fertiliser industry, let alone a
hydroponic industry. But do the little experiment. Buy a hydroponic lettuce
and a genuinely organically grown lettuce [i.e. grown in soil and not pushed
with chemical fertilizer or raw manures] and put them in the fridge in
separate bags, side by side for a month. You may then be able to eat the
organic lettuce, but the hydroponic lettuce is more likely to have turned
into the missed step - compost.
Hydroponics produces such splendid growth so swiftly especially because the
delivery of the salts to plant cells leaves them with a need for water which
they take up as best they can - with more salts, then more growth. But I
very much doubt the relative food value of this force fed plant. I do know
people who get headaches from the heavy nitrogen loads they have (amine
headaches, like people get when they use nitroglycerine tablets for angina).
It is a question of whether you take a bag chemical perspective of plant
nutrition, or whether you look at the more normal relationship between plant
and soil, including the role of clay microcrystals and coacervates, humic
acids, mycorrhizal fungi, bacteria and other diverse soil micro and macro
organisms. If we take the fact that a spoonful of healthy soil contains as
many individual organisms as the human population of the planet (the size of
the spoon is shifting as people increase in number and soils degrade), and
note that this level of activity in the soil tends to decline as treatment
with chemical fertilisers (I would include raw manures) rises, then we see
an issue. You take your choice about what you do about it. My view is that
not only are plants healthier but soil structures are sounder and less
vulnerable to erosion, etc, if we work on raising soil health rather than
just dumping feed on plants.
As regards this point:
"I don't see why it's better for manure
to be predigested through composting, rather than hitting the ground
straight from the chicken's butt..."
I think the issue is how many chickens on how much ground. If you can
convince yourself that the chooks are not crowded and they move elsewhere
soon enough - then the soil is likely to be sound enough to make good use of
the manure, and swiftly. But shovel and barrow loads are another matter.
The basic issue of chemical v. organic nutrition goes back to the impact of
Liebig on agricultural chemistry in the 19th century. Sir Albert Howard,
whose experiments in India with composting had a big impact on the organic
movement, wrote of Liebig:
"there was a kind of superb arrogance in the idea that we only had to put
the ashes of a few plants in a t4est tube, analyse them, and scatter back
into the the soil equivalent quantities of dead minerals. It is true that
the plants are the supreme, the only agents capable of converting the
inorganic materials of nature into the organic; that is their great
function, their justification, if we like to use the word. But it was
expecting altogether too much of the vegetable kingdom that it should worko
nly in this crude, brutal way" [quoted at p 141, Walters and Fenzau, An
Acres USA Primer, Kansas City 1979, 1992]
It is interesting that the pesticide industry relies on plants' absorption
of complex organic molecules for systemic poisons, while the fertiliser
industry downplays and its products diminish the role of complex organic
molecule transfer from soil to plants.
Dennis
**********************
From: "Bill and Judy Decker" --- anagenao at valu-line.net --- Dec. 15, 1999
9) SUNFLOWER SEEDS INFO REQUESTED
Has anyone on the list ever investigated the use of sunflower seeds, whole,
as a protein component for pastured broilers? We were wondering if the
gizzard would open the hull. Actually, we were also wondering if the
broilers would even know to eat them!
Thanks in advance,
Judy Decker
William and Judy Decker
Renaissance Farms Ltd
Emporia, KS
***********************
From: "Robert Plamondon" --- robert at plamondon.com --- Dec. 17, 1999
8) OCEAN POLLUTANTS INFO REQUESTED
> Has anyone read anything QUANTIFIED on the levels of
> pollutants in the ocean, and where the samples have been taken?
> Email me if you have info, please, tractionpads at earthlink.net
>Kim Salisbury
I haven't been paying attention to these issues, but that's the sort of
thing marine biologists do. There should be at least 30 years of research
on the topic kicking around. If you're near a univeristy with an
oceanography department, going to the library and asking for help from one
of the librarians should bury you in information. If kelp is a major
product in a given area, the extension service will probably have someone
who's up to speed on it, too.
-- Robert
***********************
From: Roger Post --- RogerPost at delphi.com --- Dec. 17, 1999
7) GETTING BIRDS ACQUAINTED
I think the idea of putting them together in a new space is a good one.
The problem with putting one new chickens in with a established group is
that they all attack at once. If you can put several new birds in together
in a large area or outdoors is better. I understand that putting the new
birds in just at dusk when the birds are going to roost is a good idea.
That way they have all night to get used to the idea but can not see well
enough to fight. They will wake up in the morning having spend the night
together. However, I would suggest you be around when they wake up just in
case.
Pecking order is not just something that was made up. Every chicken who
lives with other chickens has his or her place in the pecking order. They
had to fight or bluster to get that place. When you put a new bird in all
of the other birds want to make sure this new bird comes below them in the
picking order. If they have enough room so the new bird can get away from
the crowd then they will work this all out. If not they may kill the
newcomer. It usually does not take long. There will always be one bird
that no other bird can peck and one bird that every other bird can peck.
That is the way they are, and you are not going to change that. Once the
order is established the one on the bottom is not usually in any real danger
physically. mentally she may be a wreck.
***********************
From: "Robert Plamondon" --- robert at plamondon.com
6) FEED DETAILS --- MAKING YOUR OWN
>The "crimped" corn is run through a crusher compared to the ground corn
that
>is finely ground. Joel thinks the crimped is more palatable (not eating
>"dust" exclusively)
Larger birds do fine on whole corn, which also keeps better. The last time
we bought crimped corn it was moldy. I've never seen that with whole corn.
When you use ground grain in a mash ration, it should be a coarse grind, to
get rid of dustiness, increase palatability, and reduce the time spent in
the grinder.
One thing people ought to consider is having the feed mill turn your feed
into pellets instead of mash. This eliminates dustiness. It takes the
birds about five times longer to eat mash than pellets, which means that
they need more feeder space with mash. Also, the birds tend to "beak out"
mash onto the ground, where it's lost. Pellets that fall the the ground are
generally eaten anyway. People who raise birds in confinement often prefer
mash because it keeps the birds busy. We have pasture to keep the birds
busy.
Tiny chicks can't handle pellets. Crumbles (which the feed mill makes by
taking the pellets and running them through rollers) may be a good
compromise if you want to use exactly the same feed from day-old till
slaughter. We find it simpler to use a different feed for baby chicks than
birds on pasture.
By the way, one study tested the effect of substituting grain for the layer
ration in hens (to see what happens when you run out of feed and the mill
can't give you a new batch right away), and if you didn't do this any longer
than six days, it had no effect. The hens must have called on body reserves
of the things missing from the grain, and kept laying away. They also
tested the old belief that hens are reluctant to switch to a new ration if
it's from a different manufacturer, is a different texture, or a different
color. In the tests, this wasn't true, and egg production was unaffected by
whipsawing the hens from one balanced ration to another. I didn't see any
comparable work done on broilers, but my guess is that filling the feeders
up with grain (if you've run out of everything else) is far better than
leaving the broilers hungry.
Robert Plamondon * High-Tech Technical Writing
36475 Norton Creek Road * Blodgett OR 97326
541-453-5841 * Fax: 541-453-4139
mailto:robert at plamondon.com * http://www.pioneer.net/~robertp
************************
From: "Randy Simpson" --- bullfrog at wideopen.net --- December 16, 1999
5) VIGILANCE IN KNOWING YOUR SOURCES PAYS OFF
I just visited another "health food" store with a sandwich counter. They
offered "Range Fed Chickens" so I asked the owner where she got them. She
couldn't tell me exactly, "some co-op in Virginia, I think." I warned her
that buying sight unseen, depending upon the labeling, was very risky. It is
always best to talk to the provider, visit if you can, and confirm that what
you're buying is truly healthy food. She didn't understand that "organic"
chickens can be raised in a confinement house and mechanically slaughtered
and they can be "range fed" if the door is open at the end of the house to a
mud lot. Or that 5 acres of grass can be available to them but they
congregate in the fecal mud hole in one corner, eating dead chickens.
I'm going to put together a brochure titled "Range Fed Poultry, Is it all
it's cracked up to be?" and carry it with me to educate these folks. I do
wish we lived in a more perfect world where the proprietors of these "health
food" stores would personally check out their sources before they feed their
unsuspecting customers junk.
Randy Simpson
Things Eternal Farm
Fairfield, PA
*********************
From: "Robert Plamondon" robert at plamondon.com Dec. 14, 1999
4) TOWARD A DEFINITION OF PASTURE POULTRY
*What practices are included in nearly all Pasture Poultry endeavors?
Poultry that form one element of a crop-rotation system or who share
permanent pasture with other livestock. Other systems of poultrykeeping are
monoculture systems, where poultry occupy the land exclusively over a period
of years. (Having a "monoculture mindset" is the short road to failure in
small-farm poultrykeeping.)
*What additional practices may be included in some farms but not
in others practicing Pasture
Poultry?
God knows. Anything. It's a big world out there, with a lot of husbandry
challenges. It's taking a long time to work out all the wrinkles involved
in farming in one place; who knows what works and what doesn't in a wildly
different environment?
I think that most of what's been published in magazines about the benefits
of alternative poultry has been put together by people who are very ignorant
of poultrykeeping, and their checklists of "bad" practices are questionable
at best.
*Please state your idea of the numerical range of things in
Pasture Poultry (such as number of
chickens per square feet of ground, per square feet of roosting
space, per nest box, the amount of
time that chickens are kept on a given range, the seasonal
changes and roughly when they occur, or
anything quantifiable that pertains).
These numbers are fairly meaningless when you're looking for a definition.
For example, you have only one nest box per ten hens, you're going to get a
lot of floor eggs, but it's still pastured poultry. Inadequate roost space
just means that the hens will sleep in trees or on the roof of the house.
On pasture, stocking density means nothing at all unless you consider plant
recovery time and manure nutrient density in the soil. I could probably put
ten times as many birds on a pasture in May, during the spring lush, as I
could during a soggy November, where grass growth is nonexistent and the wet
ground renders the turf easily damaged.
Generally speaking, chickens on pasture should be moved before they damage
the pasture beyond the point where it will recover quickly. On cropland,
the chickens may be on stubble fields or other areas where everything's
going to be plowed under anyway, and the main consideration will be to move
them frequently enough that all their manure will be put to good use and to
get them away from the mud and dust they create by scratching the ground.
In short, if this year's crops do well on the spot where we placed last
year's chickens, we're doing something right. If the plants don't grow, or
we have to plow, lime, and seed several times a year to keep grass in our
yards, we're overstocked.
Seasonal considerations vary wildly with location. Here on the Pacific
Coast with moderate temperatures, wet winters, and dry summers, one can use
the same practices with hens year-round, so long as the hens roost off the
ground. Broilers can probably be raised year-round on a well-drained
pasture with pens that don't blow over easily and allow the broilers to
roost somewhere dry, but the standard pens are not suited to winter
broilers. God knows what the right methods are in the Dakotas.
*Please describe how to perform the most important practices in
Pasture Poultry.
You mean, "insert book here"?
*What is your professional connection with Pasture Poultry?
We sell pastured broilers, free-range eggs, pastured pork, lamb, turkey, and
goat.
*Would you like your contact information to be forwarded to
prospective customers? To be shared with
others on the Internet? To be given to news sources?
Sure.
Robert Plamondon * High-Tech Technical Writing
mailto:robert at plamondon.com * http://www.pioneer.net/~robertp
***************************
From: "Robert Plamondon" --- robert at plamondon.com --- Dec. 9, 1999
3) RESIDUES TESTING NEEDED
The whole question of residues is generally presented as an article of faith
when it should be based on facts. I've never seen a tally of the chemical
residues in a grocery basket of conventional vs. organic food, an absence
which makes me a little suspicious. Testing the products is probably a
better indicator of dangerous residue levels than testing the soil -- since
relatively few people eat dirt.
I'll see if I can find some actual test results comparing feed levels to
meat/egg levels.
Jack wrote:
> Pesticides (i.e. insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc.) and
> chemical fertilizer residue on corn, oats and soybeans are not as big
> issue with organic farmers (it is a huge issue, however, with organic
> fruits and vegetables). Of greater importance (cereal grain-wise), I
> believe, is the the lower negative impact on the ecosystem by the
> avoidance of their use.
>
> Therefore, while you and I do not practice "conventional" agriculture,
> and while our chickens are not subjected to pesticide/fertilizer
> residues, the very use of "conventional" cereal grains in our rations
> (I, too, purchase local grains...but not organic) indirectly supports
> the "conventional" agricultural model...at least to some extent.
My personal opinion is that sustainable farming is starting to win big, even
in direct competition with chemical farming. Chemical fertilizer costs
money, while animals poop for free. And chemical-based farming burns up
topsoil, which can't be replaced except by switching to sustainable farming
methods. You can't farm without topsoil, no matter how many chemicals you
use.
Now, if I were in the Corn Belt, I'd probably hasten the inevitable by
buying my grain and soybeans from a local sustainable farmer and have my
feed custom-milled. But I'm a loooong way from the Corn Belt, and it's a
LOT simpler to find the best feed mill in the area and give them all my
business, buying off-the-shelf unmedicated rations.
Robert Plamondon * High-Tech Technical Writing
36475 Norton Creek Road * Blodgett OR 97326
541-453-5841 * Fax: 541-453-4139
mailto:robert at plamondon.com * http://www.pioneer.net/~robertp
******************************
2) ORGANIC FEED MILL IN PENNSYLVANIA
Dec. 8, 1999 I am one of the owners and the manager of an organic feed mill
in PA. Check out our website at http://www.organicunlimited.com . We make
all types of organic feeds and use Fertrell's minerals in many of our
rations especially ones that target pastured layers and broilers. We would
be glad to discuss the possibilities of providing feed to any group,
co-op, or individual.
Ken Rice --- krest at nbn.net
*****************************
1) GUINEA HENS
From
BLUERE11E at aol.com
Dec. 2, 1999
What is the best type of chicken to suppliment with feed, but basically leave
on its on? I have many trees on ~ 1 acre of woods for food, shelter, and
hiding from predators. A small structure could be provided, if necessary.
Ken >>
I can't think of any chicken that would have survival skills like your
asking for. However, have you considered Guinea hens? here's a bird, eats
TONS of bugs, doesn't tear up your garden scratching. Announces strange
visitors so well, the neighbors down the road will always know when you have
company, or a REALLY BIG SNAKE come to visit.
The eggs are quite edible.. as well as the bird itself (they don't call it
"the poor man's pheasant" because it's such a gorgeous bird.). The egg
whites are actually better than any egg for merangue.. stands up stiffer.
They have pretty feathers you can sell to avid fishermen that prefer to
make their own flies, or sell to the local hobby store. They come in about 20
or more different colours, and new ones are always on the horizon.
The chicks are cuter than most baby animals, and have 10x the
personality..They get uglier though, as they mature. This is sortof like the
reverse of the ugly duckling, they have a built in "grown-up" indicator.. a
bump like horn on their head when the feathers on their head fall out.
Sort of like a vulture just so happened to visit some of your chicken hens
late one lonely evening, and guineas were the offspring of that tryst.
They roost up in trees when the sun starts to go down.. Ever vigilant, they
"go off" when they see an unfamiliar shadow or animal. Unlike a chicken or
"sitting duck".. they watch their heinies when they sleep.. They help to rid
your yard of pests, eat very little commercial food, and turn out a big
clutch of babies twice a year for you to sell off and make more money off of
them than the feed you put into them
Did I tell you are very versitile birds??(G) No, I don't like guineas,
never had one, nope, not me, don't know a thing about them...NOT!!! LOL
Hope I gave you some food for thought.
laurelle
Get your CAR or TRUCK ...
UNSTUCK !!
with
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DEFINITIONS
Types of Feed
Mash: a blend of several feed ingredients, ground to a small size but not to a powder
Pellets: small kernels of compressed mash, causing birds to eat the whole blend, not pick and choose
Crumbles: pellets broken up into smaller pieces
Starter: a blend of feed for chicks and growing birds, usually in the form of mash; approximately the same as "Grower"; can be replaced with "adult" food as soon as chicks go for it, somewhere between 4 and 8 weeks of age
Grower: approximately the same as "Starter"
Layer: feed blend for chickens that are laying eggs, having extra calcium and protein added
Broiler: feed blend for chickens that are growing as fast as possible, in order to be harvested for meat as early as possible
Scratch: whole grains fed separately to chickens, usually scattered on the ground or litter of the coop; usually a mixture of grains, such as wheat, rye, oats, etc. (corn/maize must be cracked before using as scratch grain)
Feed Ingredients
Concentrate: a blend of protein-rich foods, plus any other nutrients desired; usually fed together with a grain ration
Grit: angular, hard crushed rock, preferably from granite, used by the chickens in place of "teeth" --- seashells and bone CANNOT substitute for grit; for confinded birds, grit should be offered several times a month at least; it should be of the right size for the age of the bird (see Baby Chicks page); birds allowed to free range don't need to be offered grit -- they find their own ideal sizes and types to suit themselves
Corn: American term meaning maize corn, or "corn on the cob" (in England "corn" means what grain means in the US, that is, all food grains)
Grain: American term meaning any small, hard seeds, especially grass-family seeds (called corn in England); provides energy, B vitamins, phosphorus, and the whole grains are a fair source of protein, too
Bran: the outer coating of a kernel of grain; extremely high in silicon, which slows down its decomposing in the soil; cheap by-product of milling, often given away free by large mills
Germ: the embryo plant inside a kernel of grain; very nutritious and high in protein; wheat and rice germ (also called "rice polish") are a saleable by-product of milling
Middlings: an old milling term for the parts of the kernel that are milled off with the germ, and probably contain both the starch and bran (please email me if you have more specific information :-)
Calcium: provided by sea shells, crushed bone, and fresh or dried greens --- amounts need to be measured closely, if not free range; must be provided in higher quantities as soon as chickens begin to lay eggs
Protein: any food high in amino acids, used to build tissues; protein quality is determined by the "completeness" of the amino acid varieties in the food source; all meats, eggs of all kinds, milk, cheese, nuts, seed germs, and soy beans are high protein sources
Amino acid: a molecule that is one building block of protein; there are many different amino acids, most of which can be manufactured in the body; the few that cannot must be supplied by foods, and are called "Essential Amino Acids"; a food that supplies all 8 essential amino acids is called "complete"
Vitamins: an old, general term meaning "life-giving"; a chemical found in nature or made by man to imitate natural ones; new vitamins, and new uses for known vitamins, are always being discovered; see RECIPES section for which ones to use
Minerals: non-life-created chemicals found in nature; these and vitamins can be added to dietary regimens to improve health; sea water contains all the minerals of the earth, in their natural forms and safe amounts; "trace minerals" are those needed in relatively very tiny amounts, and can be highly toxic if these amounts are exceeded; "macro-minerals" are those needed in large amounts, such as calcium, phosphorous, and magnesium
Kelp: sea-weed, plants that grow in the sea; contains all the minerals of the earth; all kelp is edible, and can easily be dried and fed to chickens by clipping a sheaf of it to something in their area (also, this replaces any need to add salt to their rations)
Methods of Raising Poultry
Free range: ideally, not controlled by fences, able to get to fresh greens and insects; as commercially used, this term allows fences, with minimum amount of space per bird set by government agency definition
Pastured poultry: hens kept in movable, usually wheeled, pens, moved daily over fresh pasture, creating delicious meat and the very most nutritious eggs (and very fertile pastureland, too)
Organic: inspected by government agencies, organic food sources must not contain traces of harmful chemicals; the term as currently used does not insure that poultry has been raised in the best possible way, only that it has near zero harmful ingredients
Types of Chickens
Pullets: female chickens in their first year of lay, or prior to their first moult; female baby chicks
Hens: female chickens in their second year of lay, or after their first moult
Straight Run: a random mixture of male and female baby chicks, usually less expensive than only pullets
Cockerels: male baby chicks; male young domestic fowl
Broilers: chickens raised to be eaten
Layers: chickens raised to be egg-layers
Layer-Broiler: chickens raised to be both egg-layers and to be eaten
Meat Bird: same meaning as Broiler
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